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Literary Culinaria - Brillat-Savarin

August 18, 10:49 PMFood ExaminerEric Burkett
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Brillat-Savarin: He set the standard for the modern
gourmand.

A recipe for fondue

"Weigh the number of eggs you wish to use, according the presumed number of your guests.

"Then take a piece of good Gruyere cheese weighing one-third of this amount, and a morsel of butter weighing one-sixth of it.

"You must break and beat the eggs in a casserole, after which you add the butter and the grated or minced cheese.

"Put the casserole on a lively fire, and turn the contents with a spatula, until they have become properly thick and soft; add a little salt, or none at all according to whether the cheese is old or not, and a good amount of pepper, which is one of the important characteristics of this time-honored dish; serve it on a gently heated platter; call for the best wine, which will be copiously drunk, and you will see miracles."

Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin (1755-1826), "The Physiology of Taste"

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Far more than a collection of writings about food, Brillat-Savarin's "The Physiology of Taste" is an evocative exploration of the place of pleasure in life, and in making the most of opportunities to enjoy such pleasures, food being the medium in this particular case. I've been reading through M.F.K. Fisher's 1949 translation of his great work; between Brillat-Savarin's writing and Fisher's  commentaries, it's  a wonderfully  humorous  and  enlightening  experience.

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