Cahors wines - Malbec from France

October 15, 5:51 PMNY Wine Shopping ExaminerTracy Ellen Kamens

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Taming of the Brew: In Shakespeare's Taming of the Shrew, Petruchio worked hard to "tame" Katherine, but vintners in Cahors, France have put their energies toward taming the tannins in their wines.

“’They have tamed the tannins.’” Such was the pronouncement from Elin McCoy, noted wine writer and author, at a tasting event launching the Cahors campaign in the U.S. Traditionally known for extremely tight and tannic wines, Cahors, situated in Southwest France, was called “the black wine” in the 13th century. However, as McCoy explained, today’s wines are much more approachable with less tannic grip than the wines of old.

The tiny village of Cahors is home to only 5,000 inhabitants, but boasts two UNESCO heritage sites – Valentré Bridge and Cathédrale Saint-Étienne. There are 430 growers producing AOC Cahors, all of which is red and produced with a minimum of 70% Malbec, which hails from this region despite Argentina’s market dominance with this grape. The terrain is divided among the plateau, slope and valley, with grapes from the various parcels blended together to create deeper complexity.

Present day wines can be grouped into one of three wine styles: intense and complex (100% Malbec); feisty and powerful (85-100% Malbec) and tender and fruity (70-85% Malbec). Not surprisingly, the more expensive wines tend to fall into the first category. However these wines still represent good value with the majority of them ranging from $10.00 to $20.00. At this price point, the wines offer a taste of their origin and are really quite interesting, giving the consumer great wines for the price.

Cahors typically display aromas and flavors of black fruits, such as blackberry and blueberry, and hints of mushrooms (with age). They also show some minerality and finish with fresh acidity and firm, but ripe, tannins. Compared to Argentine Malbecs, Cahors wines are less fruit-driven and retain more elegance with lighter, less jammy aromas and flavors. These wines are food friendly and pair well with local cuisines – notably truffles, foie gras and cassoulet, but could just as easily complement barbecue fare, grilled meats and game.

Located not too far from Bordeaux, the regions share the same climate and annual weather patterns. Consequently, the two mirror each other in terms of vintage quality and variation. In great vintages such as 2005 and 2008, the wines are capable of ageing well with as much as 10-15 years of cellaring. Less stellar years provide an opportunity to drink the wines young.

As part of the campaign to promote these wines, a special Cahors glass (the only region with its own official stemware) and special bottle were commissioned. The Cahors glass has a ring in the stem, which permits one to place their fingers in it when holding the glass.

TASTING NOTES
Look for these and other Cahors wines at your local wine stores:

TENDER & FRUITY
Château Croze de Pys, Cahors 2006, Cahors, France, $10.00
Aromas of plum and blackberry greet the nose of this 100% Malbec wine. With an attractive freshness and good fruit, the palate offers vibrant acidity and firm tannins along with notes of blackberry and slight earth.

Château Les Croisille, Cahors 2006, Cahors, France, $12.00
Blended with approximately 15% Merlot, this deep ruby wine has black fruit aromas. Blackberry and herbal, spice, savory and olive, well-balanced with long length.

FEISTY & POWERFUL
Château La Caminade, Cahors 2006, Cahors, France, $21.00
A pronounced nose of smoke, bramble fruit and a hint of savory leaps from the glass. Similarly, the wine is powerful on the palate, with deep and rich flavors of blackcherry, herbal, wood/oak and earth, coupled with firm, but ripe tannins,

INTENSE & COMPLEX
Château de Haute-Serre, Cahors 2004, Cahors, France, $18.00
Made from 100% Malbec, black fruits, spice and pepper notes fill the nose. However, on the palate, the wine is brighter, showing raspberry, earth and gamey flavors.

Domaine Cosse Masionneuve, « Les Laquets » Cahors 2004, Cahors, France, $45.00
Proprietors Mathieu Cosse and Catherine Maisonneuve started their small domaine in 1999 and make their wines as naturally as possible, practicing biodynamic principles. Nearly opaque, the wine shows mineral/flint notes along with floral and blueberry aromas. On the palate, lush fruit flavors of blackcherry and blackberry are joined by vanilla and hints of stone and herbal.