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Trains, planes and ferry boats: Carless getaway to Vancouver and Victoria, BC
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The Loden Vancouver's classy courtesy cab. Sue Frause photo
One of my favorite Pacific Northwest getaways is spending a long weekend in Vancouver and Victoria, BC. And what makes it even better is you don't have to drive to get there. I recently returned from my latest carless adventure in Canada via train, bus, ferry, sea plane and even a London cab! Here's part one of my three-day getaway.
Day 1 - Seattle to Vancouver, BC
I'm a big fan of ridin' the rails, and taking the train is an easy and fun way to get to Vancouver, BC. The Amtrak Cascades 510 leaves Seattle daily at 7:40 AM and it takes about four hours to get to British Columbia's largest city. You'll travel through four counties (King, Snohomish, Skagit, Whatcom) and make four stops along the way (Edmonds, Everett, Mt. Vernon, Bellingham). It's a beautiful trip, no matter what the season, and you'll see things you never knew were on the other side of I-5. Note that the Talgo train is not currently running on this route, so the amenities are not nearly as nice. There is no white tablecloth dining room service, no onboard movie and no business class. But the ride is smooth and the views excellent; I just wish they'd wash the windows. Food is available, but don't hesitate to BYOB (bring your own breakfast). Adult fare is $30 one-way.
The train arrived on time at Pacific Central Station, right at 11:35 AM. It was a light load on this particular Thursday, so going through Canadian Customs & Immigration was quick. I grabbed a cab and headed downtown to the Loden Vancouver, one of Vancouver's newest hotels (it opened in October 2008). Located at the edge of Coal Harbour, one of Vancouver's fastest growing neighborhoods, the 14-story tower is a blend of "modern meets nature." Its 77 guestrooms qualifies it as a boutique hotel, and the interiors are chic and dramatic. I'd call it classic and classy rather than hip and trendy, and the floor to ceiling windows put you right in the heart of the city. Amenities include a 42" flat screen TV, twice-daily housekeeping, lots of plug-and-play technology stuff, robes/slippers and Molton Brown products. And most importantly, a very comfy bed.
Vancouver is a great walking town. I had booked a number of appointments for the afternoon: a haircut by Christopher at Moods Hair Salon in Yaletown; eyebrow shaping at the Spa at the Wedgewood Hotel; and a wonderful two-hour facial at Breathe Spa, which has just relocated to a larger space and now features five treatment rooms. Owned by the husband and wife team of Victoria and Toby Carr, it was a 19-chair barber shop in the early 1900's, and today it is one of Vancouver's most elegant day spas.
Later that evening, I met a Vancouver friend in the hotel lobby. He had arranged for Loden's courtesy car, that cute London cab picture above, to take us to Campagnolo for dinner. Located near the train station on Main Street, a once seedy neighborhood that is slowly becoming gentrified, the new resto is owned by the same trio of Alberta boys that put Fuel Restaurant at the top of the Vancouver dining scene. "So what does Campagnolo" mean"? I asked our wait person. "Country bumpkin," was her response.
Fun name, fun spot. The food is rustic Italian, from the Piedmont and Emiglia-Romagna regions. Highlights were the Crispy Ceci (chickpeas) and the Octopus Salad, while the pizza (with potatoes!) and ling cod were not so successful. We split the Olive Oil Cake with spice roasted pears for dessert. This is a family-friendly place, with its casual decor and affordable small plates menu. The only elements lacking were candles on the tables and tea on the menu.
Country bumpkin it's not.
Next: Day 2 - Pacific Coach Lines from Vancouver to Victoria via BC Ferries.
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