Celebrating Cinco de Mayo with Oaxaca Cheese

May 5, 12:38 PMDC Ethnic Foods ExaminerJack Fan

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  Photo provided by Casa Qaxaca

Cinco de Mayo (the "Fifth of May") commemorates the 1862 Battle of Puebla, a brief but astonishing victory by Mexican troops over Napoleon III's French army.  Yet this regional holiday is more widely celebrated by Americans than its Mexican neighbors.  Perhaps, because the French army conquered Mexico City shortly afterwards and installed its puppet government until 1867.  It is no surprise that Americans later commercialized Cinco de Mayo into Cinco de Margarita (a "Fifth of Margarita") but Latinos, even those without Mexican ancestry, have come to embrace Cinco de Mayo as an opportunity to celebrate all Latin American heritage.

To commemorate Cinco de Mayo, why not try something authentically Mexican?  This  excludes burritos-as-big-as-your-head, seven-layered bean dip hybrids, and other Tex-Mex dishes, like nachos and chili con carne, that are commonly mistaken as Mexican food.  The difference is a matter of culture, history, and ingredients.  Commonly used Tex-Mex ingredients like cilantro and cheddar are not native to Mexico.  In contrast, authentic Mexican cuisine is the result of Aztec, Mayan, and Spanish influences with sub-tropical ingredients like chili peppers, chocolate, jicama, and guava.  The Oaxaca (pronounced "Wuh-HAH-kuh) cheese, for example, best exemplifies the Western influence on native ingredients.

Oaxaca cheese is a close cousin of the Italian mozzarella.  Both belong to a group of spun pasta cheese (filata), which involves kneading, plasticizing, and stretching the cheese to form long, flat strands.  The result is a supple and smooth texture that's creamy and buttery to the palate.  Its mildness and melted texture compliments a variety of ingredients without being intrusive.  Properly combined, Oaxaca cheese accents sweet or salty flavors while offering its own mellow undertone.

For a more authentic interpretation of Mexican cuisine, head to Casa Oaxaca in Adams Morgan.  The artsy decor feels south-of-the-border without being cliche.  The antojitos (appetizers) are best as tapas and offer the most variety.  Most dishes incorporate Oaxaca cheese in one form or another.  The Tlayuda Oaxaquena ($10) is a pizza made with soft, thick, and mealy corn tortilla topped with crumbled Oaxaca cheese, black bean puree, and vegetables.  Don't shy away from  The Cazuela de Chapuline ($9), a Oaxaquen cheese fondu topped with crispy crickets, which is similar to salty bacon crumbs.  Do save room for the Tiramisu ($6) which turns a slightly-sweetened Oaxaca cheese into a light and airy mixture between a meringue and cottage cheese.  Tongues will dance on top pillowly clouds.  Of course, there are luxurious mojitos and margaritas to quench any desire to imbibe.