Korea's Subtler Flavors: Sul Long Tang

March 16, 11:42 AMDC Ethnic Foods ExaminerJack Fan

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Sul Long Tang at Gom Tamg E [Photo by Cindy Yun]

Whereas the predominant protein of traditional Chinese cooking is pork and Japanese cuisine is seafood, the distinguishing characteristic of the Korean diet is most notably beef. Most Americans are now familiar with popular Korean beef dishes like kalbi (fatty cuts of short ribs prepared with a spicy sauce) and bulgogi (thins slices of marinated rib-eye steak) but few know about one of Korea's most prominent dishes, sul long tang (also spelled “seol loeng tang”), a broth made of beef bones to which slices of beef brisket, rice and noodles are added.  When properly prepared, sul long tang has been described as "a soup experience of pure, bracing mineral intensity.”  Sadly, Korean restaurateurs in America nowadays have little patience to perfect the homemade broth and diners lack the sophistication to appreciate the delicate yet complex flavors of this traditional soup.  

Sul long tang is a surprisingly simple broth, which requires only a few pieces of ox bones (particularly oxtail), garlic, and water but it does require a watchful eye as the bones simmer for 12 to 15 hours; the result of which is a bland, silky, off-white broth luxuriant with dissolved marrow and collagen.  The longer the bones simmer, the richer the soup.  First-time tasters of sul long tang should not hastily dismiss it as watered-down soup but should contemplate instead on the broth's natural flavors and soothing texture.  Renowned chef Marin Yan once remarked that a good soup is the product of “extraction” – the slow, patient process of getting the most out of ingredients.  In essence, diners should prize a soup for its fragrant mouth feels and subtleness.  

Restaurants typically serve sul long tang in individual cast iron cauldrons where diners may add salt, pepper, raw scallions, and hot sauce to his or her preference.  Gamasot in Annandale, Virginia, and Gom Tamg E in Centreville, Virginia, are both recognized for specializing in sul long tang.  Between the two restaurants, however, Gom Tamg E is the clear winner in terms of color, taste, and texture.   Gamasot’s milk-white broth was blander and thinner compared to Gom Tamg E’s unmistakable beefy essence in its beige-tone broth (Note: an ivory white broth may indicate the presence of creamer to mask shortcuts by the kitchen).  Nevertheless, timid diners will find comfort in typical entrees of grilled beef and tofu soup, but this is also an opportunity to expand the gastronomic palate.  Try, for instance, sundae (pork sausages filled with sweet rice or sweet potato vermicelli noodles) or bin dae duk (fritters made with liquefied mung beans, pork mince, and vegetables).