Six essential stops on and around Sixth Street...seriously!
For years, the idea of walking down Sixth Street between Market and Folsom sent shivers down my spine. Even in broad daylight, there is no denying that the über-urban neighborhood feels like an edgy, unrepentant raw nerve. After all, it’s a harbinger for the city’s disenfranchised and a magnet for the nocturnal club set. Since I’m not in either camp - the first due to sheer luck and a 401(k) and the second because I got no rhythm – you would think I would have particular challenges in finding anything worth more than a speedy glance in the immediate area. However, a deeper look into the Sixth Street corridor yields surprising pleasures. Here are six spots worth a respite and when appropriate, a nibble:
DEFENESTRATION
On the southwest corner of 6th and Howard is Defenestration, which literally means to throw out of a window. The building is actually the long-vacant Hugo Hotel, but thanks to a small grant from the National Endowment for the Arts, sculptor Brian Goggin saw possibilities with this eyesore and has made a memorable piece of public art out of it. There is something genuinely amusing and oddly comforting about the sight of worn-out furniture about to commit suicide. Indeed, if you have ever felt like throwing furniture out the window, you can have that cathartic experience looking at Defenestration. Looking like "Alice in Wonderland" as re-imagined by a pharmaceutical company, the installation has lasted for over a decade but not much longer according to the San Francisco Redevelopment Agency. You need to hurry before the wrecking ball beats you, and try to see it at sunset when the light hits the furniture just so and elongates the shadows on the walls.
MI TIERRA SUPERMARKET
Right across the street on Howard is the neighborhood’s newest store, Mi Tierra Supermarket. Look beyond the scary blow-up clown, and you will find a long display of fresh produce lining its extensive storefront. It's a thrill to see such a vast bounty at really low prices. Once you walk in, you'll see all the staples you would need in your kitchen. There's a heavy emphasis on Asian and Latin grocery items which gives the place a nice global touch. A full meat counter is provided but with no pork since it is a forbidden item in a Halal market. However, all sorts of spices and fresh hummus are readily available. Owner Adel Alghazali already has a successful market on Mission Street near 16th, but he and his friendly staff really want to make a difference in a challenging neighborhood in dire need of the fresh goods he sells. Mi Tierra is open every day 8AM to 9PM.
SPLIT PEA SEDUCTION
Speaking of which, co-owners Christian Noto and Sarah Ellison-Pinkin have produced an unadulterated pleasure in the coyly named Split Pea Seduction, a true oasis in the middle of what everyone dismissed as an unsalvageable block. Awash in bright green in a charming space that would fit right in on Union or Chestnut Street, they offer homemade soups, fresh salads, and their specialty crostatas - flat, flaky pastries filled with all sorts of goodies like asparagus and melted Gruyere cheese or home-preserved fig jam, honey and cream cheese in another. Savory or sweet, it’s all very tasty. Open for well over a year now, Split Pea Seduction is on the western side of Sixth near Minna. Service is always sunny even if the attitude outside portends inclement weather. Be forewarned they are open only on weekdays until 3:30PM.
Another business worth applauding is the recently opened Miss Saigon restaurant on the high-profile corner of Sixth and Mission. Thanks to the foresight of owner Chi Vo (who recently earned kudos from the Examiner), the place transformed from an abandoned office space into a clean, open dining destination with an extensive Vietnamese menu heavy on the pho - big bowls of noodle and broth chock full of ingredients added at your discretion. Receiving help from Urban Solutions, an assistance program run by the San Francisco Redevelopment Agency, Vo has put another stake in the ground for continuing urban renewal. Prices are certainly reasonable, especially compared to the options at the Westfield Shopping Centre just a block away. It’s open Monday through Saturday 10:30AM to 9PM.
TU LAN
The most established culinary attraction on Sixth Street has to be Tu Lan, another Vietnamese eatery but of an entirely different style from Miss Saigon. Maybe it's the quirky mix of speed and insolence that identifies Tu Lan’s service, or perhaps the thrill-seeking risk of being on the crowded second floor when the Big One hits. Or it could be simply the food. Their Bun Cha Gio noodle dish with imperial rolls is a particular favorite, a big bowl of noodles topped off with crispy-crunchy rolls. Other specialties include the Pho Bo, a heaping bowl of beef and noodles in a nice broth, and the huge house chicken salad. Even though it is touted as “Julia Child's favorite restaurant in San Francisco”, there is no getting around the fact that it’s a greasy spoon with often sticky tables. It’s a bit like SoMa’s version of Sam Wo’s. Located on the western side of Sixth between Market and Stevenson, Tu Lan is open every day except Sunday from 11AM to 9PM.
MINT PLAZA
Ambiance, on the other hand, is in full supply at Mint Plaza. Granted it is not on Sixth Street, but a quick stroll down Jessie gets you there in a snap. Opened last November, it is a terrific revamp of an urban space otherwise underutilized. It represents a major conversion of the walkways surrounding the Old Mint building (88 Fifth Street at Mission). Previously an avoidable alley, it is now downright chic with composite stone pavers replacing the asphalt and a scattering of orange chairs all about to allow for social gatherings. Blue Bottle has opened an aristocratic coffee café, as has the upscale Chez Papa Resto. There is also summer concert series being held at noon every Friday through the end of September.
Hardscrabble as the Sixth Street neighborhood is, don’t be put off by all the single-room occupancy hotels or random shopping carts that may block your way on the recently broadened sidewalk. There is a genuine revitalization effort underway here, and thanks to the concerted efforts of organizations like Urban Solutions, there will hopefully be more jewels like the ones above, run by owners who are committed to enhancing an area that strongly deserves another chance.
LOCATIONS: (1) Defenestration, Sixth Street and Howard Street; (2) Mi Tierra Market, 1000B Howard Street, (415) 574-1339; (3) Split Pea Seduction, 138 Sixth Street, (415) 551-2223; (4) Miss Saigon, 100 Sixth Street, (415) 522-0332; (5) Tu Lan, 8 Sixth Street, (415) 626-0927; (6) Mint Plaza between Jessie and Mint Streets off of Fifth Street between Mission and Market Streets, (415) 348-4604.
Sixth Street looking toward Mission from Market Street (Photo: Ed Uyeshima)
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Six essential stops on and around Sixth Street...seriously!
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