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Savor a three-hour lunch at Novodabo in Spain
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First: The last course from a chef's tasting at Novodabo in Zaragoza, Spain. (c) Mary Bergin Photo
As the number of courses in a tasting menu grows, so does the tendency for absurdity, but this is not the case at Novodabo, a friendly and sleek restaurant that glistens in a low-profile university and residential area of Zaragoza.
Zaragoza? Spain’s fifth largest city sits halfway between two of its bigger sisters, Madrid and Barcelona. The destination tends to be overlooked by foreigners; only about 20 percent of visitors to this city of 700,000 are not residents of Spain.
What a shame, for several reasons. Count Novodabo among them. Owner-chef David Boldova, who has studied under Michelin chefs/restaurants, including Costa Brava’s ElBulli (deemed best restaurant in the world five times, including 2009), in 2008 opened a restaurant that respects traditional foods and recipes while adding a contemporary spin.
Check out David’s charm and vanguard style on You Tube. The chef also has been featured in episodes of the “Entre Platos” (“Between Courses”) cooking show.
He chose to return to a modest location in his hometown, where Novodabo (a name that combines “new” with the first letters of his name) cuisine comes across as a thoughtful and heartfelt interpretation of the Aragon area’s indigenous ingredients and recipes.
So indulge in a 10-course tasting menu and expect to spend three hours admiring the heart and artistry that the 34-year-old chef works into the meal. Or, concentrate on one entrée – but you’ll need to choose between a recipe’s traditional version and one that contains a modern interpretation.
Then pay attention to where the chef’s career leads him during the next few years. The stars of Michelin may be beckoning, as they did for two of his former bosses.
It’s a meal with a feng shui feel, thanks to the intentional nature of the setting, food’s appearance and staff presentation of it. Cost? Try 10 small-but-filling courses for 54 Euro, or 70 Euro when matching wines are included.
The chef also conducts cooking classes and wine tastings. His brochure for this quotes Benjamin Franklin: “Tell me, and I’ll forget … teach me, and I’ll remember.”
And, as for Zaragoza? David describes it as “an important city in Spain and strategically located.” Besides that, it is good to be home.
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