Surviving February in Chicago

February 4, 10:06 AMChicago Food ExaminerRebecca Wheeler

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Khao Soi. Photo by Real Thai/Flickr 

The shortest month of the year always feels like the longest here in Chicago, and this year we are capping off two brutal months of winter already. To get through a Chicago winter healthy, happy and intact requires some serious strategizing.

I spent the majority of last winter sick, battling an ongoing cough and low, low energy. I got every cold that passed in the wind and was basically miserable until April. I vowed never again, and this winter has been much better, despite more cold and snow than we all thought possible. Aside from eating well, exercise, a happy light, and some immune boosting herbs, I have found that it’s crucial to plan fun time, and special winter treats.

Here are a few things that make winter here in Chicago a whole lot better:

Asian Soups: we live in one of the best ethnic melting pot cities in America. Take advantage and embrace these amazing soups that will clear your sinuses and warm your soul.
•    Pho: Great anytime, but especially if you feel under the weather. The beef broth in this Vietnamese noodle soup is fragrant with cinnamon and star anise. Customize your (huge) bowl with fresh herbs, Siracha hot sauce and hoisin. Make it spicy if you have a cold; the steam from the soup and heat from the chilies will have your breathing clear in no time. My favorite Pho spots are on Argyle street at Tank Noodle and Pho 888.
•    Khao Soi: This chicken coconut-curry based northern Thai soup is everything a great Thai dish should be: a little sweet, sour and spicy. Because it’s a regional specialty it can be hard to find, but Opart Thai House has a nice version. My favorite way to enjoy it is to make it at home (recipe below), it’s surprisingly easy to make, but frying the noodles for the crispy topping does take a little extra time and effort. When I'm making this as a weeknight meal I usually skip the garnishes, except for cilantro and fried noodles.
•    Tom Kha Kai: This favorite Thai soup gives you the healing benefits of chicken soup (it’s made with chicken broth and coconut milk) plus the sinus clearing bonus of some serious spice from Thai chilies. Add in galangal, lemomgrass, cilantro and lime, and you have a soup that’s 100 times more interesting than “Chicken and Stars”. Siam Noodle and Rice makes a great Tom Kha.

Tasty hot drinks: A hot beverage on a freezing day is instant relief and my favorite way to treat myself. At home, I rely on high quality Rishi teas that I buy from Whole Foods, but my favorite way to enjoy a liquid pick me up is out on the go. Here are my top drinks, I’d love to hear about what yours are.
•    Metropolis latte.  Heaven. I wrote about them here, and I am not the only one raving, they have lots of deserved great press.
•    Victory’s Banner Chai. Go to this spiritually grounded restaurant for the rich, not too sweet Chai, stay for the best French toast in Chicago (a brioche like fluffy piece with peach butter-it doesn’t get any better).
•    Frontera Grill Oaxacan hot chocolate. I don’t know why everyone waits in line at night when you can make a reservation for brunch on Saturdays and and enjoy truly amazing breakfast or lunch food for less money and no wait. The cinnamon kissed Oaxacan hot chocolate is the perfect end to what is always a delicious meal. Only problem is that no other hot chocolate can compare.

Hearty fare: Although I don’t love winter, I adore winter cooking. Braising and stewing are my favorite cooking methods and I usually break out the Le Creuset Dutch oven at the first sign of a chill in the air. When I’m not cooking at home I’m usually choosing something wintry from a menu, here are a few favorites.
•    Braised pork shoulder from Avec. They change up the preparation but always serve a melt- in- your- mouth tender hunk of pork in mini cast iron Dutch oven. This dish is the epitome of great winter cooking, and is perfect to share.
•    Short rib flat bread from Mercat a La Planxa. Tasty shreds of succulent short ribs are mixed with bacon, Parmigiano shavings and horseradish cream atop a crispy flatbread. Rich, satisfying and craveable.
•    Beef stew from La Unica. In the cheap eats category, this is a lightly spiced delicious stew from my favorite Cuban dive. La Unica is a tucked away lunchroom attached to the grocery; it’s well worth seeking out.
•    Bistro Campagne has some wonderful hearty dishes that reflect the best of regional French cooking including Beef Bourgignon, Cassoulet and Roasted rabbit.
 

Khao Soi (Chiang Mai curried egg noodles)
Serves 6

Notes:
•    If you’d like to lighten the curry sauce add 1-2 cups chicken stock or water in lieu of some of the coconut milk
•    Don’t overcook the chicken, especially if you are using boneless skinless chicken breast. It only takes a few minutes to cook through depending on the size of your chicken cubes. Start testing for doneness (by cutting open a thicker chunk of chicken) early
•    A deep fry/candy thermometer makes frying the noodles for garnish much easier

3/4 cup coconut cream
1 tablespoon red curry paste
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 pound boneless skinless chicken breast or chicken thigh meat, cut into bite size cubes (prefer thigh meat)
4 cups coconut milk
2-3 tablespoons fish sauce or light soy sauce or to taste
1 tablespoon palm sugar (optional) or to taste
1 tablespoon dark sweet soy sauce or to taste
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice or to taste
1 1/2 pounds fresh Chinese style egg noodles (bamee)

For the garnish:
Vegetable oil for deep frying
2 tablespoons coarsely ground dried red chili
1/2 cup pickled Chinese cabbage
1/2 cup thinly sliced shallot
Fried shallots or garlic chips
1 lime, cut into 6 wedges
Handful cilantro leaves

In a large heavy bottomed saucepan, warm the coconut cream over medium heat until it boils gently. Add the curry paste and turmeric and stir to combine. Continue to cook a few minutes at a gentle simmer until the curry paste is fragrant.

Add the chicken and stir fry to coat with the paste. Cook for about 2 minutes. Increase the heat and add the coconut milk, fish sauce, soy sauce, and salt; stir well. Adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook 5-8 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat, stir in the limejuice. Taste and adjust the seasoning to your liking.

In a small deep saucepan heat 3 inches deep worth of vegetable oil to 360 degrees (if you do not have a thermometer test a small noodle strand-it should sizzle and bubble and become puffy immediately).  Separate 1/2 pound worth of noodles into 8 individual bundles. Deep fry each bundle, one at a time, and turning once during the cooking time, until golden brown, crispy, and puffed, about 8-10 seconds total. Place on a paper towel lined plate to drain. Save 3 tablespoons of the cooking oil and fry the ground chili in this oil in a separate small frying pan. Set aside in a small dish as a garnish.

Cook the remaining noodles in boiling water, 2-4 minutes, or until tender. Begin tasting for doneness after a minute. Drain and rinse in cold water and drain again. The noodles should not be overly wet, or they will dilute the curry sauce.

To serve, place a handful of cooked noodles in each serving bowl. Ladle a generous amount of the curry sauce over the noodles. Garnish with the crispy noodle bundles and cilantro leaves. Serve with the hot chili oil, lime wedges, sliced shallots and/ or fried shallots, and pickled Chinese cabbage.