St. Louis: All-Star Preview - Baseball & Beer

July 7, 11:35 AMSF International Travel ExaminerBob Ecker

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by Bob Ecker

Established in 1882 and originally called the St. Louis Brown Stockings, the Cardinals have a rich history. The team became the St. Louis Browns, then the Perfectos in 1899, and finally in 1900 - the St. Louis Cardinals. Amusingly, the name is not about the bird at all, but according to legend, derived from a lady spectator commenting on the Perfectos uniforms which she claimed were “A lovely shade of cardinal.” The name – and the color - stuck. Today, seas of red clad fans are all over this city.

To experience St. Louis’ bonafide baseball roots, visit The Hill. An old working class Italian neighborhood with restaurants, bocce courts and scores of low brick attached houses, Cardinals signs and pennants flutter all over. Hill residents are proud that baseball legend Yogi Berra grew up on Elizabeth Street, (renamed Hall of Fame Way) since the small street is where not only Berra, but player/sportscaster Joe Garagiola and revered Cardinals sportscaster Jack Buck all were raised. Berra’s house has a small figurine with a little angel holding a baseball bat on the front lawn. This neighborhood (not far from bucolic Missouri Botanical Gardens) gives a sense of the urban core of Cardinal fans. When in The Hill check out Lorenzo’s Trattoria and Volpi Saluminaria for some fantastic Italian delicacies.

Another living example of baseball past can be seen in the pretty Lafayette Square neighborhood, where the original St. Louis Cyclones played in 1860. Recreated today, “Vintage Baseball” players bring the past to life with all the quirky rules, décor, and uniforms of the era. Rick Rea, a former St. Louis homicide detective, is the current player/manager for the Cyclones. “It began as a gentlemen’s game, very civilized. Transgressors could be fined a quarter for uncivilized behavior such as cursing, spitting, rudeness or aggressive sliding.”  By the 1880’s there were already fights between fans of the St. Louis team and those in Chicago.  Vintage Baseball demonstrations will be taking throughout St. Louis place during All-Star week.

BEER TOWN USA

St. Louis has undergone what many American industrial cities have been through: the slow demise of heavy industry resulting in abandoned warehouses and factories. Still full of beautiful red brick buildings, many still available for a song, the city is once again bustling, and not surprisingly, beer and baseball are at its heart. 

Anheuser-Busch (known as AB in these parts) is of course, the major name in St. Louis, particularly since the “new” stadium (opened in 2006) is still named Busch Stadium after the famous company.  (Fans can enjoy insider tours of Busch Stadium) Owner Agustus Busch bought the Cardinals in 1954 and spent millions on both the team, and respective stadiums. However, things have changed. Anheuser-Busch was purchased by the Belgian company, In Bev last year and is no longer the owner of its breweries or the Cardinals; nonetheless the massive AB brewery in the Soulard neighborhood still employs thousands and offers fun and insightful tours. AB’s famous, living symbol – the majestic Clydesdales are on display; their herd of 250 is the largest in the world.

Yet fear not beer fans, things are not all Bud Light in St. Louis. There are other beers to be found in the city including Schlafly Bottleworks, a small independent brewery in St. Louis. “This building was vacant for six years before we bought and renovated it,” said co-owner Dan Kopman, who could be Gary Shandling lookalike. “The brewing industry is woven through the fabric of society.” Schlafly produces some 30,000 barrels per year - by comparison, Anheuser-Busch ships out 275 tractor trailers full of beer from its St. Louis plants – per day!  “It’s like the slow beer movement. We are all about the beer and the community.” 

Another revitalized building, and now an important beer spot worth a visit is “The Stable,” Located in a former Lemp Carriage House from the old Lemp Brewery on Cherokee Antique Row, this cool hangout is the flip side of AB. “We pour serious beer for beer geeks, no light beers here,” said Jared Gardner, Brewery Manager. “We’re a different type of brew house.” He’s right; The Stable offers a tremendous array of fine beers and ales from around the world.

A unique kind of St. Louis urban renewal can be experienced within the City Museum, a crazy, cacophonous, clown college of a place. City Museum in housed in the 600,000 sq. ft. former International Show Company, full of hands-on, feet-on oddities, (like the world's largest set of underpants) wacky slides, adventures, displays, exhibits and more. Great for kids of all ages.

St. Louis has stories, suds, humor and deep rooted baseball history, for instance, visit the basement at Mike Shannon’s to see some amazing sports memorabilia. It also has a very comfy, easy-going feel. Even at Pujols Grill, owned by slugger Albert Pujols and his wife, Dede, customers can actually come up to the gracious couple and chat without trepidation. You can really meet other players and stars dining all over. Referring to his town of St. Louis, brewery owner Dan Kopman said, “It doesn’t have mountains and it doesn’t have oceans, but it does have beer.” Oh yeah, plus it may be baseball heaven.

c. Bob Ecker 2009

Getting there: Numerous Airlines fly in to St. Louis Including American Airlines.

www.shannonsteak.com/outfield

All Photos c. Bob Ecker