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The Galapagos Islands: Magic on Earth

by Bob Ecker 2009

 

Galapagos Islands, Ecuador:

 

People all over are beginning to realize that experiences, not possessions are what really matter in life. (It’s about time) Happily what you and I care deeply about – travel - some of the most important experiences people can have – really do last a lifetime. For instance, for me the Tower of Pisa in person was otherworldly and gigantic, you wouldn’t believe it; tasting crazy Sashimi in the Japanese hinterlands that even the locals won’t touch was ridiculous and funny; and hearing 180 big Malamutes baying as one in a Quebec dog sledding paddock is a sound that still rings in my ears. But I’m lucky; let me tell you about one of the greatest places on earth.

 

The Galapagos Islands, off the coast of Ecuador are an incredible place everyone of earth should see for themselves. Pristine, a little hard-to-reach, amazing, gorgeous and thought provoking - these islands, brought to the forefront by Charles Darwin help one understand the science of evolution and our interrelationship with nature. Plus it’s much fun. 

 

The scrubbed blue sky dazzled, as we headed out on the panga through aquamarine water. The head of an inquisitive sea lion broke the surface, and watched as our experienced guide, Harry steered the little boat toward Santa Fe Island, to seek out Darwin’s Finches, Land Iguanas, and Flamingos. That morning’s wet landing brought us to a beach that was instantly rewarding. Stunning green tidal pools burst with skittering Sally Lightfoot Crabs, a few dozing Marine Iguanas, and a solitary Great Blue Heron, all guarded by austere Opuntia Cacti. Soon, walking quietly up the trial, we spotted our first Land Iguana. It was a huge male, about three and a half feet long, golden backed, yellow headed and lazy. He casually strolled by, only interested in another similarly colored male emerging from the underbrush. Then the two animals did a slow head bobbing “dance,” that only they understood. We all watched amazed, and took countless photos. Eventually the intruder Iguana walked off, seemingly rebuffed. Though nonviolent, it was a spectacular, peculiar natural show. This otherworldly view exists nowhere else, except in the Galapagos.

 

The stark, arid Galapagos Islands, lying 670 miles off the coast of Ecuador, present a colorful living laboratory, displaying a variety of endemic (found only in the Galapagos), native and migratory plants and animals well chronicled by Charles Darwin. His methodical observations led to the publication of “On the Origin of Species” in 1859 and the eventual establishment of new, learned beliefs systems that veered away from religion, and helped usher in the new sciences of evolution, psychology, naturalism and conservation. “A lot of what Darwin saw, is still here,” said first time visitor Denise Arehart, a college professor from Denver. “It isn’t ruined, and that’s icing on the cake.”

 

In this relatively inhospitable archipelago, the animals have evolved over thousands of years, exhibiting singularly unique adaptations, mainly responding and adapting to environmental pressures instead of predatory threats. “This is like Disneyland, except it’s real,” said Richard Bloomfield, a businessman from Palo Alto. Today, most of these animals live without any fear of humans and other creatures. The natural unanimity is amazing, welcoming. Sometimes you have to watch your feet to not step on sleeping iguanas or resting birds.

 

 

Part Two tomorrow

All Photos c. Bob Ecker