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Salem, still a spooky place
Happy Halloween Salem
History, Mystery and Irony
By Bob Ecker
Salem, Massachusetts:
Fear. One of the most basic of human emotions and it’s what drives Halloween. Fear of the unknown, fear of ghosts, witches, death. Fear of other. These fears are hard wired into the American psyche, due, at least in part to very early settlers of the North American Continent. Those settlers were known as the Pilgrims and among other attributes, unleashed the very real hysteria manifested by the Salem Witch Trials of 1692. Salem, Massachusetts still echoes with these fears and today curiously hosts the best Halloween parties on the planet. The ominous “witch” stigma still resonates in Salem and sometimes you can almost feel spirits crawling up your back.
First though, take a moment to think about the coast of Massachusetts in the seventeenth century. It wasn’t “America” as we know it today, but an offshoot of England, one not far removed from its medieval past. The pilgrims had a very rough time of things in a hostile climate and were afraid of nearly everything including: wild animals, Native peoples (Indians) water, storms, disease, cold and the very real threat of starvation. As with others before and after, they turned to their religion for answers and accountability. And if things didn’t line up properly, then evil forces must have been at work. Fortunately, the very English custom of proper documentation left us a wealth of written details from that momentous time.
For a place renowned for the 1692 murderous “witch hunts,” show trials and killings, the fact that a large number of practicing witches have returned to Salem may seem surprising. “We’ve been persecuted long enough,” said High-Priestess Laurie Cabot, one of the first, and most celebrated witches in Salem. Ever since her return to the city, witches have been “coming out of the broom closet,” according to Cabot. It is estimated that more than 2,500 Neo-Pagan Witches, live in and around Salem today. Cabot opened the first Witch shop in America in the 60's, and today many stores are selling potions, herbal cures, books, prayer tools, and various types of clothing. These shops are quite interesting to peruse, both for the goods displayed, and for the people running the show. “What folks do not understand is that for many witches, these trinkets and things are not necessary,” said Jerrie Hilderbrand, another Wicca high priestess in Salem. “It is about the mindful intention in your heart. That alone is all you need.” 
Still, the “special effects” and “Bewitched” versions of witchcraft provide a powerful selling point in Salem. Visitors can purchase all sorts of witch iconography in shops and stores all over town. Those interested in learning more about Wicca and witchcraft will be in the right place, Salem.
Although many present day witches reside and practice their beliefs in this region, visitors will most likely want to learn about the 1692 Salem Witch Trials, where 19 innocent people were hung from the gallows. Salem boasts a number of museums, some hokey and other less so - dedicated to the events from this period. The Dungeon Museum perhaps best demonstrates the very human tragedy associated with the Witch Trials. It’s awful to consider. This small museum presents a brief stage play between live people, portraying the courtroom terrors the accused must have confronted. After the tragic play, visitors are brought into the dungeons below. The re-created dungeons are truly gruesome, and provide a glimpse into the horrors that must have afflicted the condemned. Besides being tortured, accused parties also had to pay for everything involved including their food, shackles, water, straw, and clothing. Even if a prisoner was exonerated from all charges, the outstanding debts still had to be paid. The hated Sheriff Corwin personally pocketed all of the jailhouse tariffs. It was a very cruel time.
Another important witch-trial-era related site is the Rebecca Nurse House, in Danvers, a community a few miles west of Salem. The austere, yet strangely beautiful red house, built in 1678, lies amidst a tranquil New England farm ground. In 1692, Rebecca Nurse, an upstanding member of the church and community, was nonetheless accused of being a witch, excommunicated and eventually hanged. The historic site still evokes spooky feelings, and is worth the short drive.
Jerri Hilderbrand said, “Many came here because it is supposedly a place that works at learning from its past regarding issues of intolerance. Others come because some of the famous Wicca personalities are here and want to study with them.”
Today is Halloween - Salem’s biggest holiday of the year by far. There are tons of parties and events to enjoy. Ask around and you might get lucky and find some of the spookier ones. Not surprisingly, the spirit of the city is most alive tonight, during the sliver between our world and the next. This otherworldly revolving door is said to be the thinnest on All Hallows eve.
From pre-Revolutionary times to the grand days of sailing ships, up to perplexing witch related issues of today, Salem perseveres. “I haven’t been here since I was a kid,” said Tom Flynn from Williston Park, New York, vacationing in Salem with his family. Flynn enjoyed his visit, but when asked about modern day witches said, “There are no witches here, there’s no such thing.” Myth and reality continue to intersect, in this complicated town. Rock on all ye locals, visitors and witches. Happy Halloween Salem.
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c. Bob Ecker
All Photos c. Bob Ecker
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