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Most classic custards, both stirred and still/baked have the same general set of ingredients: eggs, dairy and sugar being the three most prevalent. The only differences among the custards are in a)using yolks versus whole eggs, b)the amount of fat in the dairy (whole milk, half and half, heavy cream), c)any additional components, such as caramel for crème caramel/flan or a crunchy layer of caramel for crème brûlée.
Let’s look at the similarities, first. All custards that are to be baked must not have thickened (fully cooked) before baking. If they are thick and pudding-like when they go into the oven, the best you can hope for is forming a skin on top of creme Anglaise. Not so great. Also, baked custards are generally served chilled. Chilling mutes the sweetness as well as some of the egginess. As well, butterfat in the dairy will firm up in the fridge, adding to a creamy mouthfeel. All baked custards not containing an additional starch (as in New York cheesecake) or not in a crust (ditto, cheesecake) are baked at a very low temperature in a water bath. The water ensures a moist cooking environment and can help minimize browning and a skin on top. The water also keeps the sides of the ramekins/baking pan at no more than 212F. This, in turn, helps to keep the baking custard from boiling. If the mixture boils, you’ll end up with a curdled custard: something that resembles sweetened scrambled eggs. Also, you’ll end up with tiny bubbles all up the sides of your custard. This is the first thing I look for in a flan when I order one for dessert. If there are bubble holes up the sides, it is almost guaranteed to be overcooked and curdled.
And now, on to the differences. First, texturally. Pots de crème are the most loosely set of the baked custards. That’s why they’re baked in cool little lidded pots. If you tried to turn a pot de crème out of the baking tin, you’d just end up with a fairly runny pudding on your plate. On the other end of the firmness spectrum, you’ve got crème caramel, which is sturdy enough to turn out so its lovely caramel sauce can run down and pool on the plate.The ability to turn out a custard is directly related to the ratio of eggs to dairy as well as to the amount of sugar. The more sugar in the custard, the less firm it will be and the longer it will take to bake.
Custard Formulae per 8oz of dairy
(these proportions are not set in stone–you’ll find all kinds of formulae out there. Hopefully, it goes without saying that salt and vanilla (at least) go in each of these custards)
* crème brûlée=8 oz heavy cream+1.5 oz sugar+3-4 yolks. With its makeup of all yolks and heavy cream, crème brûlée is the richest of the baked custards.
* pots de crème=8 oz half and half+3 oz sugar+3 yolks. While the pots de crème contain the same number of egg yolks as the crème brûlée, the extra sugar makes them less set. Pots de crème are slightly less rich than crème brûlée because of the use of half and half instead of heavy cream.
* Crème caramel=6 oz milk+2 oz heavy cream+1.5 oz sugar+1 egg +2 yolks. The use of whole egg helps the custard to set firmly while the extra two yolks lend to the richness. There is less butterfat in crème caramel because 3/4 of the dairy is in the form of whole milk.
All three types of custards should be baked in a water bath in a low oven. Remove them from the oven when still just a tiny bit wiggly in the centers. Let cool to room temperature, and then refrigerate until chilled.
For crème brûlé, sprinkle with a layer of sugar and then torch until the sugar is caramelized. Keep the torch moving so you don't burn the sugar. Let set up for a minute, and then serve.
For pots de crème, serve in the ramekins or pots de crème pots you baked them in. Since they are so creamy, it's nice to serve them with a crisp cookie or maybe some nut brittle for a textural contrast.
To serve crème caramel, run a thin knife around the edge of each ramekin to loosen the custard. Put a rimmed plate over the ramekin and turn both upside down to release the custard.
For all three, enjoy!
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