If you've ever tried grilling pork chops, you know that "simple" isn't usually part of the equation. Deceptively delicate, pork can easily go from savory and delicious to tasteless rawhide in about 30 seconds.

I have one cookbook that I turn to for grilling finesse: The Best Recipe Grilling & Barbecue (Boston Common Press, 2001). Created by the editors of Cook's Illustrated magazine, the recipes are consistent and reliable and have actually helped me to improve my cooking skills - just like the magazine. I usually skip past the diatribe of how the writer went off into his or her cave and discovered the magical recipe by endless experimentation and exhaustive research and potion-mixing, but the information about why pork cooks the way it does is interesting enough. Turns out to be the product of our nation's never-ending quest for low-fat meats that has resulted in a finicky meat that stiffens up like rigor mortis. Brining, however, helps to preserve the moisture in the meat during the cooking process.

I used their recipe to grill my inch-thick, bone-in pork chops yesterday and it was fabulous (don't bother with the skinny ones - unless you enjoy eating shoe leather). I served them without adornment, but they're the perfect vehicles for pineapple or mango salsa.

Gas-Grilled Pork Chops
Serves 4
3/4 cup lightly packed dark brown sugar
1/2 cup kosher salt (or 1/4 cup table salt)
10 medium garlic cloves, crushed (try whacking them with the flat side of a chef's knife - it's fun!)
4 bay leaves, crumbled
8 whole cloves
3 tablespoons whole black peppercorns, crushed (or be lazy like me and rough-grind some pepper)
4 bone-in loin pork chops, each 1 inch thick (about 2 pounds total)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Ground black pepper
Aluminum foil

1. Dissolve sugar & salt in 2 cups hot water in a gallon-sized zipper lock plastic bag. Add the garlic, bay leaves, cloves, peppercorns and 4 cups of cool water. Cool the mixture to room temperature and add the pork chops. Press out as much air as possible, then refrigerate for an hour (turning once).

2. Preheat the grill on high until very hot. Leave one burner on high, turn the other(s) down to medium-low.

3. Remove the chops from the brine, rinse briefly, then rub on a bit of oil and sprinkle with pepper.

4. Cook the chops on the hot side of the grill for 3 minutes on each side. Then move them to the cooler section and cook for another 3-4 minutes on each side (or until they reach 130 degrees). Remove from the grill and tent with foil for about 5 minutes (internal temperature should reach 145 degrees). Serve immediately.