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Hiking the Grand Portage trail
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Boardwalk through the beaver pond.
The last 20 miles of the Pigeon River run like a moody teenager. Serene flows turn to raging rapids turn to tumbling waterfalls and back again. Minnesota's highest waterfall sits along this stretch. Beautiful as it may be, this stretch was not the place for a 400-pound Voyageur canoe loaded with up to four tons of supplies. Another option was needed to ease passage into the rugged interior. Following a Native American trail, the 8.5-mile Grand Portage was born and the fur trade boom was on.
The portage ran between the North West Company's headquarters in Grand Portage and the smaller Fort Charlotte, a storage depot on the river. The Voyageurs (clearly better men than I) would carry 180 pounds (or more) of pelts and supplies back and forth along the trail. For my own overnight excursion, I would be lumbering under a much less impressive 25-pound pack.
The portage is a part of the Grand Portage National Monument and is managed by the National Park Service. Hiking and camping are free, but there is a small fee to tour the Heritage Center and the rebuilt fort (complete with re-enactors). It is an excellent piece of Minnesota history and worth the time. But onto the hike.
View The Grand Portage Trail in a larger map
The trail begins at the northwest corner of the fort and is marked with a sign and some historical information. Load your day or overnight pack well; there aren't any facilities along the trail. Over the first half mile the trail is flat and good bridges put you across several creeks. A few ATV trails cross the path; just keep straight. The trail is wide and very easy to follow for its length. Just before 0.7 miles a short steep climb takes you to highway 61. Watch for cars! The trail is obvious on the other side.
The next three miles are the most challenging. Rocks and roots litter the tread and the trail becomes rolling with a few sustained climbs. At Poplar Creek the trail drops sharply then immediately climbs back up. Conveniently, all the water crossings are bridged and boardwalks get you through most of the lower softer sections. Still, you are definitely in wild country. On my visit, bear and wolf tracks occasionally helped me to remember this.
At 3.5 miles, the trail crosses the old highway 61. A parking area along the road makes a good break stop. The open area has a few less mosquitos than the surrounding woods. Once stuffed with gorp, cross old 61 and enjoy that the trail becomes flatter (though not entirely).
Forest, forest and more forest. You eventually realize that this trail was not built to reach pristine lakes or scenic vistas. It is quiet and peaceful, but a hiker looking for more features will likely be disappointed. But about two miles before the end, the scenery changes. The overachieving beavers (who brought the Voyageurs here in the first place) have built a significant pond that stretches almost as far as one can see in every direction. A nearly half-mile boardwalk navigates through the pond and rejoins the trail on firmer ground. Take some time to enjoy the change before heading back into the woods for the final stretch.
Just past the beaver pond, you reach the trail's highest point, listed as 1340 or 1345 feet. It doesn't matter. It is not significantly higher than its surroundings and offers no visual change. Still, you have climbed more than 600 feet since the start. As you come to the end, small cascades on the Pigeon River come within earshot and provide a pleasant backdrop. An interpretive sign signals your arrival and offers a glimpse into life at Fort Charlotte. Gone more than 200 years, the forest has swallowed up the fort and two rustic campsites sit in its stead. For me, with the river quietly flowing in the background, it was a perfect place to spend the night before loading up for the return trip.
For more info: Grand Portage National Monument (and trail) is located in Grand Portage, MN and is about 300 miles northeast from the Twin Cities. Take I-35 north to Duluth and U.S. 61 north to Grand Portage.
Campers need a backcountry permit to stay overnight. These are free and can be obtained at the Heritage Center or at self-serve stations along the trail at both Highway 61 crossings. These help to determine and enhance visitor use and can aid in an emergency.
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