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Beyond the border: Hiking Theodore Roosevelt National Park
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North Dakota Badlands
If you travel west on I-94, you will notice that just past Belfield, ND, the landscape makes an abrupt change. The fields of the Great Plains disappear and are replaced by the harsh but beautiful Little Missouri Badlands. An intrepid hiker looking for a serious backcountry adventure should be certain to add this area to his or her must-visit list.
Prior to becoming President, Theodore Roosevelt lived and ranched here and the national park tucked among these badlands bears his name. Theodore Roosevelt National Park covers more than 70,000 acres and nearly 30,000 of those are wilderness. The park is separated into three units: North, South and Elkhorn Ranch. The South Unit is located along I-94. The North Unit is about 60 miles north. The Elkhorn Ranch was Roosevelt's primary ranch (he had two) and is mainly a historic site with little left to see. With more than 100 miles of hiking trails spread through the units (and the nearly 100-mile Maah Daah Hey Trail connecting them through the Little Missouri National Grassland), there is plenty of space for exploration. This article will focus on the South Unit's Petrified Forest Wilderness. Ready to go?
View Petrified Forest Wilderness in a larger map
The hike starts at Peaceful Valley along the Little Missouri River. Load up on water here; sources are unpredictable once you leave the river. Also carry adequate sun and weather protection. The sun can be relentless and shade is rare. Afternoon thunderstorms, while often short-lived, can roll in fast and pack a powerful punch. Okay, it is time to ford the river.
The Petrified Forest Wilderness is on the other side of the Little Missouri River and there is not a bridge. The water level fluctuates, but the river is usually crossable (It was waist high on my last hike). An extended trekking pole makes a good probe for rocks and holes. Two trails begin immediately on the opposite bank. Start with the Lone Tree Spring Loop Trail (the further one south). This 16-mile hike will follow the Lone Tree Spring Trail to its connection with the Petrified Forest Trail, loop around the actual petrified forest remains and ultimately finish at the trail we first skipped.
A good trail map from the entrance station will be helpful. The trails are generally well established, but washouts, animal runs, and trails off the main loop can lead you astray. Our hike begins in a small valley. The Knutson Creek will alternate between companion and annoyance; the trail will follow it at times and cross it at others. The creek can be easy to cross in some places and a muddy, stinking mess in others (At one crossing I found myself knee-deep in sticky and smelly mud). About a mile and a half in, you'll see the hump-like dwellings of a popular rodent. You have entered a prairie dog town, although not necessarily as a welcome guest. Fuzzy sentries pop up along your path. Their squeaks and chatter are meant to warn you off and alert the town to your presence. They may come close at times, but stay your course on the trail. Wandering off may mean an unpleasant interaction with some of the towns inhabitants: prairie dogs, black widow spiders and rattlesnakes. A quick camera finger will treat you to a fun photo before the residents disappear into their burrows.
Beyond the town the trail forks. Keep left to follow the Lone Tree Spring Trail. Another mile or so in, the valley begins to narrow, the trail climbs and the rocky, colorful mounds close in. A sharp right turn takes you on a final creek crossing and the trail rises up into the spires. The path tops out on the Petrified Forest Plateau and a fork awaits. The Petrified Forest Trail goes left.
The trail sign may or may not be here. If not, look around the ground. In addition to being helpful to hikers, the signposts are helpful to another of the park's full-time residents, the bison (commonly called buffalo, but this is technically inaccurate). The posts make great hide scratchers and can often be found broken down by these itchy beasts. Trampled dirt, wallows, and scat are other signs of a visit. These animals are exciting to see and offer a glimpse into a time long past, but give them a wide berth. Their speed and agility are amazing. They can weigh more than 2000 pounds, run up to 35 miles an hour, and jump a three foot high fence. They are usually docile, but can be extremely dangerous if provoked or frightened. Welcome to the wilderness.
The trail follows the plateau's edge for a short while, but soon returns to the undulating badlands terrain. At just over two miles after leaving the Lone Tree Spring Trail, another intersection appears. Stay right. Left goes to the other wilderness trailhead. Oops, did I fail to mention a second trailhead? One that does not require a river ford? Sorry.
By now, remnants of the old forest will appear. Stone stumps pop up in the layers below the tops of mounds and other pieces are scattered about. Examine and touch if you like, but leave what you find for the next explorer (plus it is the law). The trail heads north, pushing through small valleys and skirting the rocky hills. Near the South Unit's boundary, the trail turns east and ahead is another junction. To the left lies the Maah Daah Hey Trail and a 70-mile hike to the North Unit. Perhaps another time.
The path continues east then turns south, rolling along among the spires. You emerge back onto the Petrified Forest Plateau and continue south along the open land. The Petrified Forest Loop is done, but the trail will take you right back to the Little Missouri. The path will run to the north of where you began. From the Plateau the trail climbs back to the rough and returns again to the open. A mile before that final finishing ford, whistles and squeals signal one last prairie dog town encounter. If you were too slow for pictures before, give it another try.
A final climb and descent returns you to the river bank. The ford will be quite refreshing after pounding through the badland's dirt and dust. Shake off and call it a day (or two if you braved a backcountry camp).
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