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May, Thoa's, and Julia's put the lime in the coconut
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For Sound magazine’s June “Dish-Off,” three restaurants interpreted Harry Nilsson’s “Coconut” song in preparing multi-course menus for review.At the Ravenna bungalow called Julia’s Indonesian Kitchen, Chef Julia Suparman’s dinner included a stunning tumpeng: a cone of coconut-lime rice flanked by a pair of curries. Downtown at Thoa’s, the highlight of the meal was bo tai chanh: Vietnamese “carpaccio” tossed in lime juice. And at May in Wallingford, Chef May Chaleoy’s standouts were deep fried Siamese watercress (yum pak boong) smeared with coconut cream, and a tantalizing banana blossom salad (yum hua plee, pictured).
To quote from my article: “I realize I didn’t just choose three Southeast Asian restaurants, but I got three female immigrants (Julia from Jakarta, Thoa from Hanoi, and May from Bangkok) who have come to America and proudly stamped their names on those restaurants. These culinary artists, largely self-taught, invite us to experience their native countries through their countries’ cuisines. You can find them in their kitchen chopping vegetables, slicing meats, grinding spices, and mashing up pastes to please their customers and make their businesses succeed. I admire and respect these women for their courage and their cooking.”
You can read more about the meals by picking up the June issue of Sound (call your local music store), or thumbing through the pages at the Sound website. Do so soon, as the July issue is just around the corner.
For more info: Julia's Indonesian Kitchen is at 910 NE 65th Street (206-522-5528), Thoa's is at 96 Union Street (206-344-8088), and May is at 1612 North 45th Street (206-675-0037).
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