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Behold the Banh Mi at Spring Roll House

August 27, 4:34 PMSeattle Restaurant ExaminerJay Friedman
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I often sing the praises of the $3.00+ meal at Saigon Vietnam Deli, which has also been my favorite place for banh mi sandwiches—specifically the banh mi thit nuong, or barbecued pork. So when I heard rave reviews of said sandwiches at a heretofore overlooked alternative (or HOA, not to be confused with the Chinese Vietnamese “Hoa“), I raced to Spring Roll House to check them out.

First you have to find the place (it’s in a strip mall on the south side of Main between 12th and Boren). Once there, you won’t see so much fresh food on display, but just ask for a barbecued pork sandwich. It’s made in the back, behind curtain #1. While you wait, you can ponder what’s behind glass door #2: big bags of the star-feature spring rolls, frozen. Better yet, sample them hot. Not bad for about a half-dollar each.

Soon you’ll get your sandwich. The French-style baguette comes with a layer of luscious pork. It’s topped with julienned, pickled carrot and jicama (or sometimes daikon), as well as cilantro, jalapenos, and a swath of mayo. The textures and tastes make this sandwich a masterpiece for the masses.

So, am I ready to crown a new deli champion? Not quite. Spring Roll House is most generous with the meat, and cheaper. Their jalapenos are also spicier, if you dig that like I do. But first trip there the meat was cold; they overcompensated the next time by cooking it a little too dry. Saigon Vietnam, in contrast, is consistent—and they also offer other tempting food. Still, I gave Spring Roll House another chance to see if the third time was the charm, and it was pretty good. While you might find a cheap chair inside either deli to munch down your sandwich, look for me in the parking lot—eating and enjoying in the car.

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