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Jay Friedman

Seattle Asian Eats Examiner
Jay Friedman is a freelance food writer who does monthly restaurant reviews for Seattle Sound magazine. Growing up as part of an east coast, Chinese food-loving, Jewish-identified family, he thought shrimp with lobster sauce was the ultimate Asian dish until reading a recipe and realizing there ain’t no lobster there. Recovering from disillusionment, he’s traveled extensively in Asia , taken Thai cooking classes, and vowed to learn food-related kanji so that when he orders organ meats from the Chinese menu, servers won’t stare at him in disbelief.

  

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Roamin’ for Ramen: Samurai Noodle

August 19, 12:15 PM
 
 
I'm crazy about ramen. It might go back to Tampopo, the 1985 “Noodle Western” centered around a ramen shop, with its memorable raw egg and saliva swapping scene. While that movie glamorized the noodles for me, I’d never been to a real ramen shop, instead settling for the 8-for-a-buck version and always wondering just what’s inside those seasoning packets.

Until I went to Japan. No one knows for sure the location of the original Tampopo shop, but I found one that lays claim to the title. It’s in Odawara, about 90 minutes by train from Tokyo; once at the restaurant, I waited in line 90 minutes more for the thrill of slurping my noodles in just under 9 minutes (any longer, and the ramen isn’t as good). It’s a seriously popular noodle shop with seriously delicious ramen. Though lesser quality, I’ve also enjoyed quick bowls of ramen at train stations throughout Japan (a quick way to warm up on a winter’s day). Oh yes… I’ve even ventured to Yokohama to enjoy the ramen museum (the Ramusement Park), featuring exhibits such as instant ramen packages from around the world, a replica of the first ramen dish ever eaten (by a 17th century samurai), and an underground ramen-land, where you can sample some of the endless varieties of ramen from around the country.

Luckily, we have a ramen shop in Seattle. Samurai Noodle is in the International District, on 5th Avenue South just behind Uwajimaya. I ordered tonkotsu ramen, a Kyushu version with a slightly thicker and whitish broth that results from extensive cooking of pork bones. It comes topped with a pork slice, green onion, and kikurage –wood ear mushroom that imparts a crunchy texture. I recommend asking for beni shoga (a type of pickled ginger) as well.

Overall, the ramen was good. It had its shortcomings: the pork was a little too thick, the noodles a little too short (they said they’re homemade, but the texture was slightly off and tasted more Chinese than Japanese), and the portion a little too little. For the price, I wanted more, but slurped happily. Like sushi-eating in America, it evoked the feeling of being in Japan and the desire to return there for the real thing. Let’s just say we’re fortunate to have something close in quality in Seattle. And afterward, you can always do as I did: duck back in to Uwajimaya to graze for more food – and perhaps some raw eggs for later.

Adapted from a version previously published on Seattlest.

 


Topics: Japanese , Noodles
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