Huitlacoche: This ethnic delicacy comes from corn blight

October 9, 3:04 PMDenver Ethnic Foods ExaminerSusan Permut

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Ustilago maygis is a fungus that affects corn, making its kernels grow large and peculiarly shaped. They turn gray or black as they are filled with spores. This corn smut used to be a disease to be eradicated in the U.S. but in Mexico, it’s huitlacoche, a delicacy that increases the price of the Mexican farmer’s crop.

This delicious fungus is not widely available in the Denver area. I’ve only tasted it at Zolo, Dave Query’s restaurant in Boulder. For years I couldn’t even find it on the Web, although now it’s available, canned, at Amazon, made by a company called Sabores Aztecas.

Try it if you can: it tastes a little like mushrooms, only more delicate. When I expressed an interest in the stuff after having tasted it at Zolo, the chef went back into the kitchen and presented me with a can of it. I'll be visiting New Mexico this coming week, and  hope to try it again at my favorite restaurant in Santa Fe, the Coyote Cafe.