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The Argentine Sirio
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Some restaurants are all about the food and others are in unbelievably beautiful places. I can be a fan of either but as a 15-year veteran of restaurant writing, nothing enchants me as much as finding a true character and passionate personality behind the house that has guided, shaped and been part of the history of the place.
As much as The Four Seasons restaurant in New York can have wonderful food, I know that it's legendary in our hearts as it allows New Yorkers to get glimpse of the culinary and cultural history of New York unfolding. Almost any day you can go there and see managing partner and man about town Julian Niccolini preventing awkward social situations before they happen or encouraging overly festive young women to come out of the pool (alas it was only meant for decorative purposes).
A man and his cows.
The minute I met Oscar Meier at the La Cabaña in Buenos Aires, I knew he was one of those seminal restaurateurs. He clearly enjoys his food and being in the restaurant, has three lovely daughters (Sirio has three sons) and a slew of pretty waitresses to flirt with. From the dapper suits to the commanding and all-seeing walk in the dining room he also physically reminds me of Sirio Maccioni of Le Cirque.
Even the menu has fur at La Cabaña.
And yes he has spent time in the states and knows the Oscar Mayer wiener song, which it amuses him to sing. Although he astutely points out that his name is spelled differently. Oscar's English is charming and original, as if he were inventing it anew everyday. For instance, people who love life, for him have "swing" and less than glamorous situations aren't "Hollywood." He also says constantly that he "loves the life." If I ran an iconic steakhouse in Buenos Aires I might feel just the same way.
This legendary, multi-level La Cabana restaurant in Recoleta dates back to 1935 and is awash in black and white photos of stars of stage and screen who have dinned there, such as Sophia Loren and Robert Duvall. The property is currently owned by Orient Express and the upstairs meeting rooms have the cozy, country feel of a country property like an estancia. Two quite lively looking (stuffed) cows frame the entryway to the restaurant, are the same two who used to stand guard on the street many years ago, according to Oscar. When asked if they have names his swiftly replied that cows are cows. I guess the Argentines don't name their animals.
Divine meat fresh off the range rules at La Cabaña. You can even do a kobe beef, tasting, although I much prefer the local meat. Oscar is a fan of bubbles, so am I and the Argentines make some beautiful and affordable ones. The Trivento Brut Nature non-vintage rose has a nice yeast structure and strawberry aroma. Oscar, not wanting to waste time also has a hand in promoting the company's wines.
Salud,
Liza the Wine Chick
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