The 'New' Amici's on Wadsworth

June 7, 5:58 AMDenver Dining ExaminerStan Dyer

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The sign is small and difficult to spot, but just look for the crowd.

First off, I want to apologize to my friends and readers for my recent hiatus.  My girlfriend recently had outpatient surgery and was staying at my house so I could keep an eye on her.  That, and the adjustment to retired life has left little time for anything else this week, and I am sorry.  Nonetheless, Joni felt a bit better on Saturday, so I took her to a late lunch at the New Amici’s on Wadsworth.  

Ever since Amici’s moved from its longtime location at 52nd and Sheridan, the place has been crawling, and I have been looking for a good opportunity to get in there when it was not too busy.   I finally got my opportunity by going at 4:30 p.m. on a Saturday afternoon.  Even though they have been there a while, the location is still so new that, if you try to find the restaurant on-line, you will most likely find old information on the old site.  The new address is 4300 Wadsworth Boulevard, phone, 303-455-5585.  It is on the east side of Wadsworth just south of FirstBank  in the location that used to be “Gemini”.  

They put a nice coat of paint on the old building.

Those who once frequented Gemini will immediately notice that most of the architecture was kept intact, but they did polish it up quite a bit.  Amici’s has a warmer, more open feel to it with more seating and a better use of outside lighting.  They also added a patio, but I have yet to see anyone dine there.  The new building is a nice merge of old and new.  They definitely put the polish on and made it their own, but they kept some of what loyal customers will remember from the old place.  For a while anyway, Amici’s will do well just on word of mouth and customer loyalty, but the new building and new location were both very good moves. 

Inside, it has elements reminding one the old restaurant.

If you have never been to Amici’s there are a few things you need to know.  First, I have heard stories that this Amici’s is somehow connected to the one on 92nd, and that may be true, but the are definitely two distinct and different restaurants.  Second, you need to know that this is an “old-line” Italian restaurant in that almost everything contains meat, has meat added, or uses meat in the recipe.  Finally, there is one, good vegetarian option on the menu, the pizza.  The pizza sauce is the only truly vegetarian sauce they have.   Even if they tell you another sauce is vegetarian, it is not since they tend to warm up sausages and meatballs in the sauce and, thus, ending its vegetarian status.  

They added to the old with a lot of new, and a lot more space.

Do not be discouraged.  The pizza is pretty good.  I have had it twice and liked it both times.  You can get variations, but there standard pizza is a “thicker” New York style similar in flavor and quality to Arvada Villa, and better than Anthony’s, if you happen to be comparing what is available in the area.  The restaurant is close to Vincenza’s, but I have never tried their pizza, so I cannot compare.  I will say that Vincenza’s, just a short drive west down 44th, does have more vegetarian options, and I expect the two will compete for business in the area now that Valente’s is gone.  Vincenza’s is not as big, but they have a good product and a good business.  

You do not expect a view like this from a restaurant in the city.

As I like to do, I took my camera along and posted a slide show.  Take a look at the slide show for pictures of the restaurant, the food, and more comments about the food.  Even though there is not much for me to eat here, I would definitely come back for the pizza, and for the new location.  Amici’s is worth a try if you find yourself in the area of Wadsworth between 38th and 44th in Wheat Ridge.