The secret hiding place of Gordo's Mexican Restaurant

March 23, 4:04 AMDenver Dining ExaminerStan Dyer

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Just like finding an old friend

This is an article for long-time Denver residents who thought they lost an old friend.  If you remember the Mexican restaurant, “Gordo’s” that used to be on the southwest corner of 6th and Wadsworth, you’re in luck.  Gordo’s has resurrected at the “44th Avenue Grill” due north up at 44th and Wadsworth.  

I have been meaning to stop in ever since I saw the sign claiming, “Now serving Gordo’s Mexican”, but I did not make it in until recently.  I did not know what I would find, but I discovered a local pub with separate areas for a bar, pool tables and dining.  I also found decent Mexican food in the same style served at Gordo’s for many years.  They have the same menus, the same salsa, and the same food.  Here’s what happened.  

It's the same menu...

The 44th Avenue grill used to be directly on the northwest corner of 44th and Wadsworth.  It was a combined liquor store and restaurant called “Vern’s”.  Even if you never dined there or bought a bottle of Jack at the counter, chances are you remember the sign that included a big, lighted arrow pointing straight down.  Well, Walgreens came to town, wanted the spot and bought out the ownership.  A small shopette was built that included a new restaurant, “The 44th Avenue Grill”, tucked back in the corner and a new liquor store featuring the same old sign.  It sounds like a classic “win/win”, and it pretty much is.  

Somewhere along the line, the management of the 44th Avenue Grill acquired the rights to Gordo’s property and moved the food up north.  The new restaurant is not quite as big as the old place and decorated a bit differently, but it still retains a lot of the feel of the old place, and, most importantly, the food.  

...the same feel...

Every Mexican restaurant serves its version of salsa.  Gordo’s had a pretty good one.  The salsa served at the 44th Avenue Grill is exactly as I remember the salsa at Gordo’s.  It has the same flavor, the same consistency and the same chunks of onion the Gordo’s salsa had.  It is probably a bit spicy for most modest tongues, but it is just right for a middle-of-the-road restaurant salsa.  The salsa also goes well on Gordo’s signature vegetarian tamales that you can purchase in six or twelve packs to go home.  

Gordo’s tamales come in either pork or vegetarian made with jalapenos and cheese.  I believe both are the same price that is $7.00 for six and $13.00 for twelve.  You can add chili in a separate container for $4.50 more.  These tamales get my vote of approval.  We buy them for New Year’s with the house salsa instead of chili.  Both chilis, red and green, by the way, are not vegetarian.  If you are vegetarian and you want the vegetarian tamales, get the salsa.  It is worth it and makes a nice treat.

...the same salsa...

At Gordo’s, even though none of their chili is vegetarian, they do offer a number of fine, vegetarian options.  On this visit, they had a fresh spinach and black bean burrito on special that we ordered smothered with the house salsa.  With the added salsa, the burrito had enough of a “bite back” to make most Mexican food enthusiasts happy.  The burrito itself was low in fat, full of good fiber and tasty.  That’s a killer trio that cannot be beat.

...and the same food. 

Whether you are an old fan, or just looking for good Mexican food in the Wheat Ridge area, stop in to Gordo’s and have a taste of Denver history.  The place is not fancy, but they have a good product and a good price with plenty of free parking right near the front door.