Novo Italiano at Mark & Isabella in Belmar

January 9, 9:11 AMDenver Dining ExaminerStan Dyer

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Pictures of Isabella adorn the restaurant.

Remember when you went to an Italian restaurant and the entrees included your choice of soup or salad, (at some places you got both), bread and maybe a vegetable or some other side?  Those days may be slowly slipping away.  More and more, new restaurants are opening with a modern ala carte menu, or, with Italian restaurants, what I call “Novo Italiano”.  Mark & Isabella is one of these “Novo Italiano” restaurants and that can be either good or bad depending on your point of view.  

They have a good, affordable llist of wines

The Novo Italiano concept is good if you like great, almost gourmet food, do not have a lot of money, or you are counting calories.  The menu is wonderful and full of variety all the way from soup to dessert and everything in between.  If you just want to try a soup, a salad, an entrée or even dessert and maybe a glass of wine, you can do that without spending a whole lot.  I imagine you can get individual glasses of wine, but I only saw whole bottles offered on the wine list.  Thus, this restaurant would be a great treat for a first date or a couple of friends in from out of town.  You can share a bottle of wine, a couple of appetizers and a lot of conversation in a comfortable setting for a nominal fee.  
 

Our appetizer trio

On the other hand, the concept is not so good if you have a big appetite or a big group.  The pastas and entrees are all in the $10 to $17 range, but if you want soup that’s $6, a salad big enough for two is $7 to $9, an appetizer is $7 to $11, and something as common as an order of garlic bread is $3 more.  If you want the complete meal, it will cost $33 a person on the low end and as high as $54 a person on the high end.  I am value oriented so the price makes me wince a bit, but it really is not so bad when you consider the price of dinner at most upscale restaurants these days and the quality of food you are getting at this one.  The food is exceptional.  
 

The traditional eggplant with a side of garlic bread

We started with the Zuppa del Giorno, or, as they call it “Soupa di Gorno” after discovering the minestrone is not vegetarian.  They do call themselves “American Italian”, and I expect such variations from American Italian.  The soup we enjoyed was a puree of caramelized onions and mushrooms that was just divine.  We also had the Fritto Misto or “Mixed Fried Foods” appetizer that was the best vegetable tempura I have tasted outside of Namiko’s in Arvada, and we shared a Romaine Salad with roasted garlic vinaigrette that was not unlike the anchovy-less Caesar enjoyed elsewhere.  The salad was plenty for two people.  Our appetizer trio totaled $22, but we did share all three parts.  
 

It is right by the skating rink

For our entrée, we shared the Classic Stack Eggplant Parmesan with evo dressed arugula for $10.  That is a good price for eggplant parmesan and this was a good one, but I should note, as I said before, all you get is the eggplant and the arugula.  If you want the side of pasta that usually accompanies this dish, it will cost you extra.  The whole meal was outstanding with a nicely priced bottle of Felsina Chianti Classico, and made for a very enjoyable dining experience.  

I need to point out that we visited during their “soft” opening while they were testing recipes, pairings and menus.  The Grand Opening begins Friday, January 9, and anything could change while they adjust to their new clientele.  Nonetheless, we found great, attentive service, a very clean dining room, and an outstanding product.  Do consider a visit to this restaurant to give it a taste, but do not be afraid to attempt ala carte ordering.  Everything is handmade and homemade, and there is a nice order of straight pasta with homemade red sauce on the “little extras” menu for just $11.  Mark & Isabella will be successful if they can hold out until people discover them and the economy loosens up.  This restaurant is a nice addition to Belmar.