New Orleans Chronicles: The Muffuletta

January 7, 2:59 AMDenver Dining ExaminerStan Dyer

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St. Louis Cathedral in Jackson Square

Friends asked about my trip to New Orleans.  One told me it was “sleazy” down there, but I soon discovered he had never visited.  Another warned about the crime and cautioned, “Don’t stray too far from the beaten path…”  Yet, we walked freely about the town with no trouble at all despite looking every bit like tourists.  Still another was concerned that the city had not yet recovered from Hurricane Katrina.  Well, there are parts of the city that may never fully recover from the hurricane, but most of the city is back to normal and you can find things there that just do not exist anywhere else.  

One of these is the Cathedral of St. Louis, King of France in Jackson Square.  Built in 1720, it is one of New Orleans’ most identifiable landmarks and still houses an active, vibrant parish.  If you get a chance to walk inside even for a minute, you will know there is nothing “sleazy” about this New Orleans tourist destination.  

Nothing sleazy in here!

Even on Bourbon Street, where most of the action in the city takes place, there is Le Theatre St. Pierre, which opened in 1792 and may be the oldest French Opera House in the United States.  The first documented staging of an opera in New Orleans took place here on May 22, 1796 and the city has sponsored an opera company every year since.  Although this building is no longer used for opera, it is a historic landmark and points to the rich heritage of the city.  
 

The Old Opera House on Bourbon St.

If all this history is making you hungry, both landmarks are within easy walking distance of Central Grocery, home of another item uniquely New Orleans, and sure to satisfy your appetite, the Muffuletta.  It is one, big sandwich.  

Central Grocery established in 1906 is a different kind of historic landmark.  It shows the Italian-American influence on the melting pot city.  Both locals and tourists alike flock to this small, grocery story at 923 Decatur near Café du Monde to partake of the “original” Muffuletta sandwich.  
 

The Grocery is still at 923 Decatur

There are a number of accepted spellings of the name, but locals pronounce it “Muff-a-lotta”, and folks at the store pronounce it “Moof-a-letta”.  People will know what you are talking about, but just don’t call it a “Muff-a-letta”.  A Muffuletta is a ten-inch, Sicilian loaf of bread cut down the middle to like a huge hamburger bun.  Then, an Italian olive salad spread is smeared on one half and layers of cold cuts and cheese are piled on top.  There are varying recipes, but most include the olive spread, at least two types of meat and one cheese.  It is not unusual, however, to see as many three meats and four cheeses used.  There are many variations of this sandwich all over town, and, even though Central Grocery may not have the best, theirs is the undisputed first.

A Veggie Muffuletta from Chartres House Cafe

The Muffuletta is uniquely New Orleans and, although there are many sandwich shops, sub shops and delis around the country, few have ventured to imitate this Louisiana staple.  It is the original sandwich built for two, and, the next time you make it down to New Orleans, it is worth a try.  Take one with you as you walk through Jackson Square marveling at the majesty of St. Louis Cathedral, or while gazing at the exquisite architecture of the Old Opera House on Bourbon Street.  The combination is sure to change any negative ideas you might have about the city and give you reason enough to come back.  As much as I love Denver and all the fine eating establishments to choose from, I still know of none that serves a truly authentic, New Orleans Style Muffuletta.  

(Christmas Season in New Orleans ended January 6.  Mardi Gras season is now underway)