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Convention closing in? Head for the hills and El Rancho!

August 25, 9:13 AMDenver Dining ExaminerStan Dyer
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When candidates, delegates and 15,000 members of the media converge on Pepsi Center like red ants on a fallen snow cone, it can start to feel a bit crowded in Denver. When war protestors march from the Capitol, lighting sets off sprinkler systems and people start talking about the selection of Joe Biden, the temperature can start to rise rather quickly. When it starts to feel too crowded and too hot in town, it is time to do what every warm-blooded Denverite knows to do, head for the hills! There is always some breathing room just a few miles west of the city in the mountains and the temperature is always at least ten degrees cooler. 

 

If you get a little hungry on your escape to the hills, you can stop for lunch or dinner at the El Rancho restaurant, an oasis in the hills since 1948. Originally built as a postal station, the building is 7,686 feet above sea level and almost half a mile higher than all those tourists on the thirteenth step of the Capitol Building. Whether sitting inside on the antique chairs specially designed for El Rancho and designed for use backwards while viewing cockfights, or sitting out on the patio in more contemporary seating, you are sure to feast on one of the best views in Colorado. When President Dwight Eisenhower visited back in the 1950’s, he was so impressed, he mandated that two exits of Interstate 70 be designated “El Rancho” exits. Those exits no longer exist and were replaced by the Evergreen Parkway Exit #252, but that does not keep people away. 

 
 

The view that keeps people coming back.

Certainly the best option on the menu for low-calorie, low price and continuous enjoyment without the after-effects of over indulgence is the wonderful view from the patio at El Rancho.  It is nice to drive down I-70 gazing at nature's beauty, and it is even better to stop for a while on the side of the road, but few things can compare to dining on a good meal in full view of the spectacular Continental Divide.  It just has a calming effect that continues to heal the weary year after year.   They also offer some pretty good wine and food.

 

 


It was a very good salad and big enough for two.

Although El Ranco prides itself in its offerings of game, prime rib and seafood, it is nice to know they still have many options for vegetarians.  One option is a fine selection of dinner salads.  We shared a pear, walnut and blue cheese salad that was big enough for two, and, at $11, was a pretty good value.  It was nicely presented, had a good mixture of flavors, and I especially loved the "cowboy" motif on the plates.  We noticed that an entire table of eight diners was also enjoying the soups and salads, so no one need fear El Rancho thinking there will be nothing "non-meat" to eat.  Of course, carnivores will love the place too, but El Rancho definitely has something for everyone and it is all good.

 

A pretty good pizza and a pretty good vegetarian option

Now, I did not come to the mountains expecting to eat pizza.  If I did, I would drive a little further to Idaho Springs and Beau Jo's for a mountain pie.  Yet, after seeing pizza on the menu and remembering the good experience I had at DiCicco's in Arvada with the 10" pizzas, I thought I would give one a try.  It was priced right at 10" for $10 and it was nicely presented in the traditional red, white and green, but they only offer the 10" and they only offer their version of the "thick" crust.  The browned edges were good, but the rest of the crust was not as good as either DiCicco's or Beau Jo's.  Nonetheless, it was not bad and it is certainly nice to know the menu option exists in case any of my carnivore friends want to dine at El Rancho.   

 

It is very relaxing and comfortable.


El Rancho offers good food at good prices in a comfortable, relaxing environment.  The restaurant is clean, the service is top notch and everything we ate was nice.  With seating for 300, a beautiful, rustic building, and that wonderful view, it is no wonder this restaurant remains a local favorite.  When the rat race in Denver gets you down, just remember you can find your sanity again a short distance from town at El Rancho.  After 60 years, the town may have grown up around, but the peace and quiet remain the same.  El Rancho is still a good place for Coloradans to catch their breath and cool down. 

 
For more info: El Rancho - 29260 US Highway 40, (Evergreen Parkway), Golden, CO, 80401  303-526-0661   www.historicelrancho.com 
Check the website for hours, specials and happy hour offerings. 

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