We've all read about the restorative and preservative powers of red wine. Well, it must be true. It was there today, right under the Obama news on the front page of The New York Times: "New Hints Seen That Red Wine May Slow Aging."

That would explain, I suppose, the youthful vigor of our middle-aged alcoholics here in North Beach, a decidedly red wine drinking community if ever there was one.

Red wine, the story said, may actually help extend the human lifespan because it is known to contain resveratrol, said to enhance longevity. (Lab mice like it, apparently, when they're sober enough to say so.) I pondered this at lunch, over two life-extending glasses of Bordeaux. After doing a little math, I figured I'll probably live to 135 or so, meaning I'd better beef up that 401(k).

And speaking of red wine and beef, an e-mail arrived in my inbox today from Marsha Garland, who runs the North Beach Chamber of Commerce. Garland was passing along a message from the owners of Joe DiMaggio's Italian Chop House, denying rumors that they're on the verge of bankruptcy.

"So, in that case," Garland suggests, "please stop by and enjoy the beautiful atmosphere, the great wine list, and the scrumptious steaks and chops."

Well, Marsha, I'd love to. Only my name ain't Rockefeller (or, if you prefer a local deep pocket, Getty).

I've been to DiMaggio's three times: once for drinks, once for dinner and once to attend a neighborhood mixer. And Marsha's right. The atmosphere is beautiful. The wine is good (and the Scotch isn't too bad, either), and the steaks are terrific. Nice staff, too.

Trouble is, it costs like a year of Harvard tuition or something to eat at the place. I'm not going to wander in there on a casual Friday, thinking, "Gee, I think I'll have a $40 steak tonight."

What is it with San Francisco steakhouses, anyway? I'm a red meat, red wine kinda guy and while I wouldn't eat steak more than a couple of times a month, I WOULD eat steak a couple of times a month if it didn't blow a hole through my wallet. Steak has always been expensive, but I mean ... jeepers.

Take Manga Rosa, around the corner on Stockton. It's the same deal. They charge thirty-three bucks for a steak -- with NO sides. Everything is a la carte, baby. Do their cows sleep on satin sheets, or what? Gimme a break.

I know rents are high and that there's plenty of overhead involved in running a nice joint. The real answer to protecting small businesses so they can serve their neighbors is commercial rent control. But I suppose that's a subject for another post.