Three things from the fryer at the corner of 10th and Pike: oysters, grean beans, fries. Sides of lemon aïoli and tartar sauce. And a Manny's. The oysters, lightly battered, are beautiful, accompanied by luscious, deep-fried slices of lemon. The green beans crunchy and flavorful in a tempura-like cloud. The fries as good as any in Seattle.

This is Pike Street Fish Fry, site of the former Frites, a low-ceilinged, street-level venture headed by underground chef Michael Hebberoy and coffee & pizza entrepreneur Mike McConnell. (Takeout orders go into Café Vita's paper cups.) There's seating for six at a bench, standing room for perhaps another dozen. Don't be alarmed if you see a line of people outside, or if the walls start to vibrate; that's just the show at Neumo's, next door.

The seafood comes from Mutual Fish. As for the batter, the cook admitted to flour and cornstarch but no more. "Secret ingredients," he said. We're guessing egg-white.