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Ronald Holden
Seattle Food ExaminerRonald Holden has been writing an award-winning wine and dining blog, Cornichon.org, since 2004. A Northwest native, Belltown resident and unreconstructed Francophile, has worked at KING TV, Seattle Weekly and Chateau Ste. Michelle. He has published five guidebooks to the wine country of Washington and Oregon and is the wine columnist for The NW Magazine. He is also the director of wine tours for The International Vineyard, restaurant reviewer for Belltown Messenger and editorial director of DeliciousCity.com.
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Showing entries for Category: pesto
Through a (Clear) Glass, Darkly
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by Ronald Holden, Seattle Food Examiner
We humans are delusional; we think we have free will and immaculate perception. We pretend we're not robbing Peter to pay Paul, just borrowing from our friends...so we can buy oil from our enemies. We turn our food supplies into fuel, and we'd grow even more if only we could afford to import additional fertilizer from our neighbor to the north (even as we build a fence to keep out our neighbors from the south). In this climate of public mistrust, we are encouraged to rely instead on the personal and private: our own sense of taste. Especially when it comes to wine, that most variable of beverages, we're told to "drink what you like." In this bottle, in that glass, we seek salvation.
Salvation from bad wine? No, improvement of good wine, but subito, vite, schnell, quickly! Can't wait for the subtle ravages of time to smooth tannins and ameliorate acids, gotta getta gimmick and, presto! The wine doesn't breathe, the glass breathes. So say wine gurus Robert Parker and Ronn Wiegand. So says the sage Braden Rex-Johnson in today's Pacific Magazine. Sez Examiner, not so much.
We tried this new Breathable Crystal stemware with a second-tier Bordeaux, a Beaujolais and a Chinon, all decent wines that showed promise of improvement with time. Yes, tannins were tamed, but the wines seemed to lose their balance. In growing up so fast (two or three years in two or three minutes), they lost their youthful intensity.
We see the future with no more clarity than any mortal; but through this glass, our conclusion is "don't grow up too fast." Live within your means, live within your time.
Topics: pesto , Wine , Eisch Breathable Glass , Seattle Times
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