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Adrian's is back...huge and flavorful burgers now downtown
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Adrians - unfortunately, the interior is about as appealing as its exterior
For over twenty years in the Fifth Ward, Adrian's Burger Bar dished out a handful of soul food items daily and some of the very best, and certainly biggest hamburgers in the area. It closed in 2007, and I was glad to recently learn that it has resurfaced at the southern edge of dowtown.
As in the past the hand-crafted, cooked-to-order burgers took at least twenty minutes to get, even though the restaurant was almost deserted. It was worth the wait. Cooked on the flat grill, the patty had nice crust, and though cooked entirely the way through, it retained enough moistness and beefy flavor like I remembered. The burgers did not seem quite as large, maybe two-thirds of a pound rather than the pound-plus in the past. Also unlike before, the toasted white bun nicely fully covered the burger and the accompanying tomato slices were pleasantly ripe and juicy. Mustard was always overdone in the past. Yesterday it is was used with restraint and balanced with mayonnaise, which was beneficial.
Best of the changes were the fries, which were cut in wedges and featuring a nicely crusted exterior. These were far better than the amazingly greasy and limp versions from before. For $7.50, it was a very enjoyable and filling meal, and one of the best burger and fries combination I've had in a while. The soul food items looked great, and seemingly worthy of trip.
Though much larger than its previous location, the setting is similarly an afterthought; it is nearly completely nondescript, a dozen circular tables, unadorned walls and a television. Be prepared for a wait, too. It should be worth it.
Adrian's Local Café
1730 Jefferson (at Jackson, in the Communications Workers Of America building), 77003, (713) 752-2233
www.adrianslocalcafe.com
Tue - Fri 11AM to 7PM
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