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Stella Sola, the Heights Italian from Reef and Gould is nearly open
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A couple of days ago I received a notice that the new Italian-themed restaurant from the folks at Reef (and Little Bigs) and Jason Gould was set to open quite soon, by the end of the next week. It furthered explained:
"Stella Sola (which means Lone Star in Italian) features Texas-Tuscan cuisine, where Texas culture and ingredients meet the flavors and influences of Northern Italy. Stella Sola's kitchen will make everything in-house - from cured meats and sausages to cheeses and fresh pastas (complete with daily pasta-making demonstrations). Chef Jason Gould's kitchen will also dry-age its own cuts of beef that are then cooked on a wood-burning grill for intensity of flavor. Stella Sola's menu also includes flat breads, slow braised meat dishes and fresh catch from the Gulf."
I got the chance to speak briefly with Gould at the recent My Table awards event. He told me that the "Texan-Tuscan" phrase gives them a lot of leeway, so it will not have the typical Italian or Italian-American menu. In fact, there is very little in common between the cooking of Tuscany and any culinary tradition rooted here. There is a common robustness, but the most tangential connection is steak grilled over the open flame. One of the most famous Tuscan dishes is the large, thickly cut porterhouse steak originally from Florence, the bistecca alla fiorentina. Until recent times, it was made from the giant breed of Chianina cattle that were slaughtered young. The Maremma area in southwestern Tuscany that has one of Italy's few cattle grazing areas also has a steak grilling tradition.
Though the combining Texas and Tuscany might be somewhat of a stretch, the restaurant should be interesting and likely very good. Bryan Caswell and Bill Floyd at Reef have had the golden touch these past two-and-a-half years, and Gould was the Up-and-Coming Chef of the Year 2006 and Chef of the Year 2007 from My Table Magazine during his tenure at Gravitas. His departure in August was biggest local restaurant news this summer.
Additionally, Stella Sola plans a similar aggressive wine pricing program that Reef has, which is very good news. And, the restaurant will have two rooms for private events: one that can hold up to 150 for a seated event and 250 for a cocktail party; and a second one that seat 20 and accommodate 35-40 for a cocktail party. I'm looking forward to it.
Stella Sola
1001 Studewood a(at 10th), 77008, (713) 880-1001
www.stellasolahouston.com
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