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Visiting Croatian wine country: The Durdevac wine road and medieval Croatia
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The rooster of Durdevac
Just south of the border of Hungary is the town of Durdevac. Known as “The Rooster Town" (picok in Croatian), its nickname refers back to the 16th century when the townspeople supposedly held a besieging Turkish army at bay by deluding them into thinking the town could hold out indefinitely. Since the Turks were strying to starve them out, when they were down to their last rooster, a wise townswoman told the town leaders to throw the bird to the enemies to show them they had more food then they needed. It worked and the town was saved.
This area is rich in history, and it is worth a visit the old fort and the town of Sveta Ana. This town has about 100 residents who live more like people did in the 1800s than today. You can learn more about the region by looking at the slideshow below.
There are 27 wineries on the Durdevac wine road. As you drive through the countryside, you pass through picturesque vineyards, which are situated on the slopes of gently meandering valleys.
Many of the grape vines are non-graphed because the soil is sandy (phylloxera can’t survive in sandy soil). Locally the soil is called “the Bloody Sands,” and harbors grape varieties that include some indigenous species. You can also see visible remnants of sand dunes. I inquired into the name “Bloody Sands,” but unfortunately the requisite fabulous story does not seem to be attached.
One of the most acclaimed local wineries is Matocec Marijan. They make a variety of wines including Pinot Gris (which makes up 50% of their production), Sauvignon Blanc, Grasevina (or Welsh Riesling), Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The Pinot Gris (5 euros) has a crisp acidity along with white spices on the palate and nose. It’s aged for three months in neutral oak to develop the grapes characteristics (as opposed to imparting oak flavors). The Chardonnay (also 5 euros) is elegant in style with lovely ripe fruit and medium body. Again the oak treatment is very subtle.
Matocec Marijan is located in Micetinec just outside of the town of Durdevac. From there we continued on to Duro Sipek winery in Klostar Podravina – about seven miles away -- to taste a verticle of their Chardonnay: 2009, 2008 and 2007.
The 2009 was a barrel sample that seemed as if it would develop into something similar to the 2008, which I really liked – unoaked with a light body and crisp fruit. The alcohol came in at a restrained 12.9%. Interestingly enough, the 2007 was heavily oaked so I guess they’ve decided to go in a different – and to my mind better – direction. I also tasted a barrel sample of the 2009 Kerner, which showed gorgeous aromatics, as well as a blend of Zwiegelt and Cabernet Sauvignon also in barrel. I think this will grow up to be a lovely wine as well.
The proprietors and staff at both wineries were very friendly and eager to share their wine and knowledge. As with wineries in most of Croatia, call ahead to make an appointment. They are not generally open to visitors without one.
For information on the Durdevac Wine Road or about any aspect of visiting Croatia, contact the Croatian National Tourist Office at 212.279.8672 or cntony@earthlink.net (350 Fifth Avenue, suite 4003; New York, NY 10118; www.croatia.hr). Please note that advanced noticed is required for visiting most wineries in northern Croatia.
Next the Vinarija Winery in the lovely spa town of Duravar…
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