The much maligned merlot

September 4, 9:27 PMWine ExaminerLeslie Cramer

Merlot's image has taken some blows in the past few years. From being slammed in movies to Merlot-hater groups that sprouted to rebel against the growing popularity of the grape, Merlot's reputation has been unfairly maligned.

Everyone remembers the line from the wine-lover in the Oscar-winning film "Sideways" where he proclaims, "If anyone orders Merlot, I'm leaving!" just before entering a restaurant for a double-date. The drink of choice for the character, Miles, played by Paul Giamatti, was Pinot Noir. But the funny thing is that at the end of the movie Miles drinks the dusty bottle of 1961 Chateau Cheval Blanc from Bordeaux, France, that he had been saving for a special occasion. That wine is a blend of wine with about half of the mix consisting of -- you guessed it -- Merlot.

That's because Merlot is one of the most amazing red wines, with an ability to be a bold, super-ageworthy wine in one bottle, and a lighter, fruitier red that would pair well with burgers or barbecue in another bottle. So I encourage you to give it a try. It would be fun to have a party and buy three or four different bottles of Merlot with examples of the different styles the wine can produce. A knowledgeable wine store clerk could easily point you in the direction of some different styles of Merlot.

Here are a few I have found tasty and suggest you give a try next time you're in the mood for a decent bottle of red.

• L'Ecole No. 41 Merlot -- This Washington State wine is a great example of a Merlot that can have great depth and an amazing texture. This pleases the palate with flavors of cherries, blackberries and spices such as cinnamon and nutmeg, as well as hints of chocolate. And it all washes down with a silky smooth feeling in the mouth. Sounds great huh? It sometimes is hard to find, but it has been spotted at Dorothy Lane Market and Arrow Wine & Spirits recently. It usually costs about $30 per bottle.
• Beaulieu Vineyards Merlot Napa Valley -- This California wine is another solid example of what Merlot can be, and yet not cost hundreds of dollars per bottle like some of the best Bordeaux wines. This offers loads of fruit and spice flavors such as cherries, plums and vanilla. It goes wonderfully with pork, pasta and can even hold up to a nice steak. It usually costs about $15.
• Casa Lapostolle Cuvee Alexandre Merlot -- This wine from Chile is full of complex flavors, including black cherry, plum and pepper. It should cost about $20.