A walking tour of old Quebec City

November 4, 1:54 PMSeattle International Travel ExaminerAnnika Hipple

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The Chateau Frontenac looms above the city

Photo by Annika S. Hipple

A few weeks ago I had the opportunity to revisit one of the most historic and beautiful cities in Canada: Quebec City. Founded by the French explorer Samuel de Champlain in 1608, Quebec celebrated its 400th anniversary last year, making it one of the oldest cities in North America. It's also the only remaining walled city in the Americas north of Mexico. Its well-preserved old town, Vieux-Québec, was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985.

Located along the north bank of the Saint Lawrence River, Quebec got its name from the Algonquin word kébec, meaning “where the river narrows.” The Old City is divided into two sections: the Upper Town (Haute-Ville) high above the river and the Lower Town (Basse-Ville) at the base of the cliff.

With its narrow streets, charming stone buildings, and Old World character, Quebec begs exploration on foot. A good place to start is at the Place d'Armes, just outside the city's most famous landmark, the Château Frontenac, an imposing turreted hotel now operated by Fairmont.

Next to the Château Frontenac you'll find the Dufferin Terrace, a clifftop promenade overlooking the St. Lawrence. It's also the upper terminus of the funicular that runs between the upper and lower towns. My recommendation is to walk down and take the funicular back up. To get to the lower town by foot, turn your back on the Chateau Frontenac and head down the Rue Fort. Turn right at Montmorency Park and follow Côte de la Montagne as it curves down the slope.

At the base of the hill is one of several large-scale murals illustrating the history of Quebec. Just beyond is Place Royale, the heart of the lower town. Dating to the eighteenth century, the square houses a visitor center as well as the little church of Notre-Dame-des-Victoires, built in 1688 and restored in 1759 after suffering damage during the British bombardment of Quebec.

The streets off the Place Royale, known as the Quartier Petit-Champlain, are narrow and filled with historic houses, shops, and cafés. The oldest, narrowest, and most bustling street is Rue Petit-Champlain, which is also where you’ll find the lower terminus of the funicular. Before riding back up, however, you may want to wander over to the waterfront. In the Vieux-Port (Old Port) district you’ll find renovated warehouses filled with restaurants and shops, outdoor entertainment in summer, and the Museé de la Civilisation, which houses a variety of displays on human society, as well as a good exhibit on the history and culture of Quebec.

Back in the upper city, stop by the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, on Rue des Jardins just beyond the Place d’Armes. The first Anglican cathedral built outside the British Isles, it was completed in 1804. To the north of the Place d'Armes, opposite the Chateau, don’t miss tiny Rue du Trésor, a narrow covered alley filled with artists selling paintings, prints, and other work. At its other end, the alley emerges onto Rue de Buade. Just ahead, at the corner of Côte de la Fabrique, is the Basilica Cathedral of Notre-Dame-du-Québec, which has been destroyed twice but rebuilt according to its original 1647 plans, and the adjacent Seminary, founded in 1663.

Continuing down the hill, Côte de la Fabrique meets Rue St-Jean, one of the main shopping and dining streets of old Quebec. Several blocks further on, by the Porte St-Jean, one of four gates remaining in the old city walls, is Place d’Youville, a lively square with street performers in the summer and an ice skating rink in the winter. A block to the north of the square on Rue d’Auteil is the Artillery Park Heritage Site, which played an important historic role in the defense of Quebec. Displays include a scale model of Quebec City from the early 1800s.

In the opposite direction from Place d’Youville, just beyond the city walls near the Porte St-Louis, is the impressive Renaissance-style Hôtel du Parlement, home to Quebec’s Provincial Assembly. Free guided tours are offered year-round (daily from late June to early September and Monday through Friday during the rest of the year).

Following the walls to the south brings you to the Citadel, an imposing fortress atop the escarpment overlooking the St. Lawrence River. Built by the British between 1820 and 1832, its original purpose was primarily to protect the city from American attack. Access is from the Côte de la Citadelle, just inside the walls. Changing of the Guard and Beating of the Retreat ceremonies are held here during the summer.

Look west from the Citadel and you’ll see the National Battlefields Park, which includes the Plains of Abraham, site of the bloody 1759 battle in which British forces under General James Wolfe surprised and defeated the French troops commanded by the Marquis de Montcalm. The park is a pleasant place to wander, with gardens, monuments, and lovely views of the river. It also houses the Musée National des Beaux-Arts du Québec, which contains an extensive collection of Québécois art and other objects.

To return to the Château Frontenac, follow the Rue St-Louis east from the Porte St-Louis or take the Promenade des Gouverneurs boardwalk from the eastern end of Battlefields Park back to the Dufferin Terrace. There's also a path down to the Terrace from the eastern end of the Citadel.

For more information: Tourism Quebec (provincial tourist office); Quebec Travel Guide (independent site)