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Osteria Marco keeps it fresh with accessible fine dining
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Osteria Marco's wine and panini
Denver is not short of fine dining restaurants, especially in the downtown area, but today’s recipe for success is accessibility. Osteria Marco lives up to its mantra, “A humble restaurant where friends gather to casually enjoy their wine and food.” And that is exactly what we did on a sunny Halloween day. We lingered. We lingered over delicious wine, cheese and laughed with our table neighbors.
Larimer Street is the Meatpacking District of Denver. For anyone that has spent time in New York, you know exactly what I mean. The energetic neighborhood has kept its character and charm with the rotation of new restaurants and bars popping up each year. Osteria Marco opened its doors in October 2007 to join the family of Frank Bonanno’s successful restaurants dedicated to good food and service.
The menu is incredibly accessible featuring small plates including a Formaggi and Salumi Bar and a nice selection of antipasti, salads, paninis and pizzas. But standouts include the house made chesses and meats. The “Chef’s Assortment” of cheeses ($14) should not be missed. Ours included Capra Ricotta made with organic goat milk, the House Ricotta, a delicious blend of sheep and cow milk and a firm Mozzarella served with perfectly grilled Ciabatta bread.
Osteria Marco’s wine list is thoughtful and easy to navigate with the majority of bottles under $50. But you’d be best off with the Quartinos. The 2007 Primitivo from Puglia had forward fruit with a nice balance of spice and a smooth finish. And for $9 it was friendly enough in price to order another to share (or keep for yourself if you’re on the selfish side).
The sidewalk terrace beckons guests to enjoy Denver’s 300-plus days of sun with its iron table and chairs and black and white awnings, that pay tribute to the original grocer shop. Bonanno commissioned local artist Quang Ho and ironsmith Michael Mancerella to craft metal pigs as an additional tribute to the former butcher and to bring good luck. When I entered the charismatic store front (where you can buy cheese by the pound) I had tasty flashbacks of Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc. Continue down the grand staircase to a beautiful full dining room and bar ideal for large parties and business gatherings.
We had a humorous discussion with the manager as we watched neighboring restaurant staff do rounds in full costume. Needless to say, Osteria Marco’s hip and service driven team members were not in costume and according to the manager, never will be.
1453 Larimer St., Denver, 303.534.5855
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