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Champagne Pertois Moriset, home to food-friendly Blanc de Blancs
It is widely believed that Champagne should only be served as a cocktail-like wine, with light hors d’ouevres, but nothing more. This is purely and simply not true. With the holidays coming up, you might want to think about what you can serve with Champagne.
It’s true that Champagne makes a lovely aperitif. Lighter bubblies, like Perrier Jouët or Pommery are lovely by themselves, and their bright acidity can really start getting your dinner guests hungry.
Bigger, toastier Champagnes like some food next to them. If you’re serving a Pol Roger White Foil Brut, say, or a Bollinger Special Cuvee, then a great match-up are small balls of sharp Pecorino cheese. People doubt this until they try it and the suggestion came from the mouth of the dashing Christian Pol Roger himself.
Champagne can take you all the way through the meal. Lighter fish makes a nice match for a bright non-vintage Champagne like Nicolas Feuillatte. You might think of using a vintage, especially one from the spectacular 2002 crop, to match up with poultry dishes. A better suggestion is a good 100% chardonnay Blanc de Blancs bubbly for fricassee of chicken in a cream based sauce. Look for Reulle-Pertois, Lancelot Pienne or Pertois Moriset for that match up.
If you’re serving a meat based main course, think pink. That’s right; Rosé Champagne is a great accompaniment for roast pork or even lamb. You might think of something like Heidseick Monopole Brut Rosé or Moutard Pere et Fils Prestige Rosé, for that. If you get into a beef course, you might want something bigger, like Delamotte Brut Rosé or Taittinger Prestige Rosé.
Blanc de Noirs make for good palate cleansers with a cheese course. The best of those come from the Aube, made either by Drappier or by Serge Mathieu. Their bracing steeliness will perk up tired diners.
When you come to desserts, there are many ways to go. Almost any Champagne will match with chocolate dipped strawberries. A chocolate cake might demand a demi-sec (slightly sweet) Champagne, like Moët & Chandon’s Nectar Imperial. Better still might be the Rosé version from the same producer. A more daring choice would be from the Savoie, and therefore not technically a Champagne. The Bernard Roundeau Bugey Cerdon is a bright, lively pink sparkler that’s quite sweet but alive with cherry and strawberry fruit. It’s hard to find, but worth seeking out.
Finally, there’s always the cliché of Champagne and caviar. Don’t knock till you’ve tried it.
