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Restaurant row series: Cantina Laredo
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Mexican fare marries gourmet cuisine at Cantina Laredo. What should be a brilliant and irresistible concept, this restaurant is over-hyped and fails to live up to the exceedingly high expectations it was given. Over-priced and under-flavored, Cantina Laredo simply cannot compete with the other fine dining establishments on restaurant row (for starters check out Samba Room or Timpano Chophouse). Even the ambiance fails to compensate for the restaurant's lack of tasty, worth-the-splurge menu options. The atmosphere is unpretentious and unadorned, and this style can only be successful in restaurants that boast exquisite food; Cantina Laredo, unfortunately, is not an exception.
If dining at Cantina Laredo is on your list of "must try" restaurants, or if you just swear by restaurant row, then do not miss one of the menu items that is appetizing enough to sample; the made-at-your-table guacamole and bottomless chips. Albeit $10, this starter is portioned generously and full of cilantro, garlic, onion, and lime. Veer from the warmed salsa option but do douse the endless supply of chips into the slightly chilled and spicy one.
Several of the main course offerings were described much better than they actually tasted. Usually a personal favorite, the enchiladas de camarones (shrimp enchiladas) were foreign to what this delectable Mexican staple should comprise. The flavor of the shrimp ensconced the entire dish, as the tortillas were bland, the monterey jack cheese was scarce, and the roasted peppers were undercooked. As with each of the other entrees, rice and vegetables accompanied the main component. The rice was unsatisfactory in flavor and texture, and the vegetables, well they were just simply out of place. Not to mention, where were the beans?!
Equally known for being a popular Mexican dish, yet delivering the same inadequate amount of gourmet flavor as the shrimp enchiladas, were the enchiladas de espinaca (spinach enchiladas). Although there was a heartier portion of cheese, and the spinach was sauteed correctly, the tortillas were soggy and the sour cream poblano sauce was far too rich and overpowering for this delicate dish. The grilled chicken tampico (artichoke hearts, mushrooms, spinach, red bell peppers) was also mediocre and equally drowned in the sour-cream poblano sauce.
Although the sizzling Mexican apple pie postre smelled heavenly of butter and cinnamon, after sampling several pricy entrees and disliking each of them, dessert was a no-go.
If you decide to make your own opinion of Cantina Laredo ($$-$$$):
Go to: 8000 Via Dellagio Way
Orlando, FL 32819
For reservations or take out: 407.345.0186
However, a recommendation for delicious Mexican fare is simple: stick to the local "hole-in-the-wall" joints known for that cheesy, spicy, greasy, and bang-for-your-buck goodness that is gourmet under cover! Reviews of these worthy Mexican restaurants to come...
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