Northern Spanish cuisine a delight in unsung Asturias

June 30, 6:23 PMEuropean Travel ExaminerAndrew Hood

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Eating in Asturias is reason enough to plan a visit

If Asturias wasn’t already one of Europe’s top undiscovered gems, with its pristine beaches, wild mountains and rowdy nightlife, its delicious cuisine erases any doubts.

Nicknamed Spain’s “natural paradise,” Asturias is nestled along Spain’s northern “green coast” and boasts some of Europe’s best seafood and regional delicacies.

Fishermen’s abundant catches of squid, shrimp, crab, octopus, hake and cod fill local restaurants and tabernas along beach towns at Llanes, Ribadesella and the thriving port city of Gijón (www.visitasturias.co.uk/Splash_Screen.html).

The most famous regional dish isn’t seafood, however, but a rich stew made of white beans called Fabada Asturiana, which is slow-cooked with pork, Spanish sausage, blood sausage and saffron. 

My wife and I recently explored this fascinating region, following our noses to search out some local restaurants.

Our first major feast came in Gijón, a bustling port city overflowing with restaurants, bars and tabernas. We searched a popular place filled with locals called Sidrería Plaza Mayor, known for its fresh seafood (Travesía Jovellanos 10, tel: 985-350-938)

Rather than order heavy courses, we sampled a few raciones to try several different items. First came a plate of pulpo, or boiled octopus, served with potatoes, rock salt and olive oil topped with paprika. Next up was a succulent plate of delicately fried sardines called parrochas. 

Next came a tender fillet of bonito, a sort of tuna, served with a tangy pepper sauce. Still not satisfied, we ordered up a plate of navajas, which can only be described as a form of sand worm. Served with garlic and olive oil, they were surprisingly tender and tasty. 

We washed it back with a huge jug of sangría, hardly a drink of the north, but the waiter highly recommended the house mix. We finished the meal off with a shot of orujo (a Spanish version of grappa). We left well-lubed and stuffed for 55 euros for the two of us.

After a day of enjoying the sun at Gijón’s San Lorenzo beach, we searched out a menu, a popular item in Spanish lunchtime restaurants that usually includes a starter, main course, bread, wine and dessert, ranging from 10 to 15 euros.

We found a place once again packed with locals (always a telltale sign that the food is good) with a charming upstairs deck with views of the sweeping beach called Restaurante Galeón (Avenida Rufo García Rendueles, 7, tel: 985-337-568).

We sampled the fabada, a second of fried merluza fillets, with side salad, dessert and a bottle of table wine from nearby Bierzo, all for 10 euros each.

Another fine tradition in Asturias is its tangy natural apple cider called sidra. The mildly alcoholic drink is a stable of any self-respecting bar. Servers called escanciadores raise a bottle high over their head and pour a narrow spout into a glass held below their waist to oxygenate the sidra. 

Only a small amount is poured into the wide-mouthed glass, which is quickly put to good use, with any leftover poured onto the floor, usually covered with wood chips. 

There’s even a museum dedicated to the drink in Nava: www.museodelasidra.com/index2_ingles.htm

Asturian cheeses are renowned throughout Spain and is known as el país de los quesos (land of the cheeses), with particular renown for its Cabrales blue-cheese styled flavors from the high mountain valleys of the Picos de Europa (www.artisanalcheese.com/prodinfo.asp).

What’s sure, if you venture to Asturias, you won’t go home with an empty stomach.

For more info: www.spain.info/TourSpain/Destinos/CCAA/Datos+Generales/C/0/Geografia