One of the earliest Mexican foods to be exported north of the border, tacos are simply a tortilla wrapped around a filling. Mexican tacos are the soul of that country’s diverse cuisine, and the most common street food. The term “taco” comes from a Spanish word meaning “light snack”, but it has its origins in pre-Hispanic times, when the Aztecs used corn tortillas to scoop up food. Tacos bridge the gap between the norte and sur by the mere fact that everyone eats them.
Don Pepe’s Taquera #3 is reminiscent of the Mexican street food experience. It’s not much more than a white shack with a covered porch for seating. Definitely not fancy. There are only about 4 booths, so much of the food is served to go. The restaurant sits in the parking lot of Pinetree Shopping Center on Buford Highway, roughly a mile inside the perimeter of I-285. The plaza is mostly Asian except for a Subway. (No idea where stores #1 and #2 are located and don’t have enough Spanish to ask. Readers?)
Don Pepe’s has authentic Mexican tacos at a very reasonable price. Single tacos are only a dollar. You can also get combination platters with rice and beans, for just a little more. Even with a drink, you can completely stuff yourself for $10. And the food is good. It helps to know a bit of Spanish, but the menu board is translated. Choose from pollo (chicken), lengua (beef tongue), cabeza (beef, from the head muscles of the cow, not brains) or pastor (spiced pork). Nothing is spicy as it comes from the kitchen, but you can add red sauce (cooked probably from dried chilies and very hot), green sauce (made from tomatillos and not as hot), a wedge of lime, or pickled vegetables.
I ordered lengua and cabeza tacos with a tamarindo Jarritos soda, a tamarind flavored Mexican brand soda. Even the Coke comes from Mexico, where they still make it with cane sugar rather than corn syrup. The meat came wrapped in two, soft, white corn tortillas, about 3 inches in diameter, with fresh minced onion and cilantro. The tongue was cut into cubes and fork tender. The cabeza was shredded and cooked in gravy. Both were flavorful and moist.
Don Pepe's Taqueria
Pinetree Shopping Center
5215 Buford Hwy NW, Doraville, GA
(770) 452-3313