Changing of the Guard at Canlis

October 23, 5:36 PMSeattle Food ExaminerTraca Savadogo

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The next generation of the Canlis clan has brought forward some welcome changes.  While speculation over today's press conference prompted a swirl of rumors, let's be clear about a couple things: No,they are not closing.  And they are not opening an Eastside outpost. 

This 58-year old bastion of fine dining is digging in its heals...and bringing their "A" game. The baton has been passed to the next generation of the Canlis family, and the changes have had a profound effect on their operation.  Canlis is still the go-to place for fine dining, but with an award-winning winning wine list, and a knock out pastry chef, Canlis is much more than a special occasion spot. 

 

Today's press conference signified a culmination of the changes at Canlis.  Steadily, they have made some noteworthy changes: remaking their service procedures, which has earned them nominations for the James Beard Award for Best Service in the Country.  And the addtion of key personnel -- pastry chef Neil Robertson and head barman James MacWilliams has placed Canlis among the top 20 restaurants in the country.  A two million dollar rennovation modernized the dining area and completes the understated elegance.   

After a noteable career in the Air Force, Brian Canlis returned to the family business and joined brother Mark at the helm.  Brian is in responsible for busines development and product reinvention and on a trip to New York, had a most remarkable meal.  As the executive sous chef at Danny Meyer's Eleven Madison Park, Jason Franey was responsible for that dining experience.  The rest, as they say, is history.
 

This morning's press conference announced a shift in the Canlis line up.  After eight years as the Executive chef, Aaron Wright is taking his family back to Napa.  Chef Jason Franey will transition into the position beginning December 1st and maintain the existing menu through the end of the month.  In January, the tasting menu will be our first introduction to Chef Franey's mark in the Canlis kitchen.  While old favorites will remain on the menu, many will reflect changes under the new guard.

When I asked Chef Franey about his culinary style, he said it will be "market driven and seasonal."  Clearly he's not from 'round these parts.  Fresh, seasonal and market-driven is deeply imbeded in the Seattle culinary landscape, but Franey has a new spin on things.  



Inspired by a trip to Pike Place Market, Chef Franey gave us a taste of his culinary vision.  This Sunchoke Panna Cotta with Celery and Black Truffles was divine.  A delecate panna cotta, with a layer of celery puree, a zesty hit of lemon, and minced truffles were topped with a light foam and topped with a truffle shaving. 


See those shaved truffles resting on a nest of bubbly foam?



Cocktails were served up by head barman, James Mac Williams.  This is the famous Canlis Pousse Rapiere, a lusty Armagnac infused  with Grains of Paradise, toasted cardamom, and dried fig and apricot, topped with Cuvee Champagne and an orange peel garlish. 



A shot of sunshine. These Gruyere Gougers were light, airy bites that complimented the panna cotta's earthy truffles.
 

And here's Pastry Chef, Neil Robertson making the rounds with these fun "Standing Cones."  



A close up shot shows the details: A cone of made of tuille cookie dough makes a perfect vessel for a trio of sorbets: mango, chocolate, and fromage blanc. The gravity-defying stance is thanks to a dollop of white chocolate anchoring cones to the plate. 



The Canlis crew: Chris, Alice, Brian, Chef Jason Franey, and Mark.

Dining at Canlis has always been a treat.  With Chef Franey at the helm, his creative vison belies sophisticated elegance that will keep me coming back for more!