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Kyle Busch
Automotive ExaminerKyle is an auto enthusiast and consumer advocate with over 30 years of experience. Author of “Drive the Best for the Price…” He welcomes your comments and car questions on his website www.DriveTheBestBook.com . Kyle’s car has over 490,000 miles and he even has the same name as the #18 NASCAR driver.
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Classy MGB Classic
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by Kyle Busch, Automotive Examiner
Are you interested is owning a classic car such as a MGB
from the late 60’s or early 70’s? This classic is quite simple
mechanically, and it offers a pure and honest driving experience.
Classic-Car-Magazine.co.uk provides the following to keep in
mind when you look to buy this classic.
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Body:
The MGB is a well-built and designed machine, but it is a steel-bodied
car and it is prone to rust, especially if driven in extreme winter weather.
The main areas to focus on are:
- The trailing edge of the trunk lid and tailgate are prone to rust and may have been repaired with bondo or fiberglass.
- Sometimes fender repairs are made by welding new panels over the top of the old ones. This accelerates the rusting in the new panels. Remove interior trim to look for signs of poor repairs.
- Check the condition of the battery holder which can corrode due its location under the car and also if battery acid has leaked out.
- Look for uneven gaps around the doors as poor alignment means badly repaired sills. Check for corners touching, large gaps or doors with uneven gaps with the bodywork.
- Look at the structures under the fender because mud can collect in the upper sections and cause corrosion. Unfortunately the only way to assess the full problem is to remove the front fender. If you suspect trouble, there is usually more to be found once the fender is removed.
- The front fenders can corrode around the headlamps and in the lower corners behind the wheels where mud is splashed up.
- Check the cross member under the car (it is usually fine as oil from the engine drips down and coats it). The front suspension components all rely on this cross member to be structurally sound.
- Check the lower edges of the doors from underneath for rust, bondo or fiberglass. A blocked drain hole in the door can fill the door with water.
- Check the inner and outer sills for corrosion or covering of the sills that hide problems. It is not uncommon for a new sill to be put on over the old corroded sill which will greatly reduce the life of the new sill. The sills are a very important part of the car’s structure and should be examine carefully.
- Check the rear wheel arch lip for corrosion and body filler. The lower areas of the front and rear fenders are also venerable due to mud beingsplashed up and not being removed.
- The front air intake and rear deck (roadster) can be difficult panels to repair therefore, check for any signs of corrosion or filler in these areas.
Engine:
The B-series engine is one of the strongest engines around and with
the exception of general wear and tear on high mileage cars, the engine
is not a weak point.
If possible have the car started when cold so you can look for smoke
on start up which indicates oil seal failure on the valve gear. This is not
a serious problem but the cylinder head needs to be removed to make
the repair.
When the engine is running and up to temperature, noise from the top
end is normal (B series engines can be a bit tappety). In fact, if there
is no noise then the rockers probably have been over tightened,
possibly to hide wear. But doing this will accelerate the wear in the
valve gear.
Any rumbling from the bottom end, or block, means a worn crank and
main bearings so do not buy the car unless you are prepared to do an
engine rebuild. A chattering timing chain is a sign of wear, but the
timing chains can be replaced fairly quickly, inexpensively and with the
engine still in the car. The presence of water in the oil is a sure sign
of a blown head gasket and potentially a cracked or warped head.
Oil leaks are commonly found near the timing chain cover, gearbox bell
housing cover, drain hole, and tappet side covers (it is nearly impossible
to stop a B series engine from leaking oil but at least the oil will act as
rust protection for the bottom of the car).
Look for an oil pressure of about 50psi in 4th gear with the engine
warm while driving. A significantly lower reading might mean a faulty
oil pressure sending unit, a worn oil pump, or worn engine bearings.
Running hot indicates a worn water pump, a blocked radiator, or even
burned exhaust valves.
Be sure to check back tomorrow, part-two will cover the MGB’s transmission and interior.
I welcome your comments and car questions at my auto web site: www.DriveTheBestBook.com.
Topics: Classic car , MGB , body , engine
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