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Castroville: An Alsatian settlement deep in the heart of Texas
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The Henri Castro Homestead, Castroville/Chamber of Commerce
Castroville, Tex--In distance, Castroville is not far from San Antonio--only 20 miles from the outskirts of the nation's seventh-largest city. In mood, however, Castroville might as well be a continent and several hundred years away.
Known as the Little Alsace of Texas, the small town (pop. 2664) boasts a heritage born in the French province of Alsace. Although today the townspeople represent a diverse group--French, German, Spanish, English, and Mexican--it is the Alsatian customs that dominate this bucolic bit of transplanted Europe deep in the heart of Texas.
The birth of a pioneer town
Nestled along the meandering bends of the Medina River, Castroville represents a period of adventure, a time when the opportunity for colonization allowed a pioneer to leave a mark upon the world. For entrepreneur Henri Castro, a Jewish man born of noble Portuguese stock in St. Esprit, France, the time also presented a chance to flee the crumbling empire that Napoleon Bonaparte left behind after his death.
Castro became a naturalized citizen of the United States in 1827 but returned to France in 1838 to become a partner in the prestigious banking house of Lafitte and Company. It was while he was trying to negotiate a loan for the young Republic of Texas that he became interested in its future. After the republic's president Sam Houston appointed him consul general for Texas at Paris, Castro entered into an agreement with the Texas government to bring settlers from Europe in exchange for land grants. An aggressive advertising campaign had the most success in his own backyard: the Alsace and Lorraine provinces of France and neighboring Germany.Between 1843 and 1847, 27 ships crossed the Atlantic carrying 485 families and 457 single men, mostly farmers and artisans.
As picturesque and peaceful as Castroville appears today, it was far from a paradise for these first settlers. Still, the hardworking residents went about the task of building a town where they could live, work, play, raise their families and worship their God, and continue the proud traditions brought with them from their homeland.
An architectural legacy
More than 90 of the structures of those early days still stand. The original colonial houses are native limestone covered with smooth stucco (usually white for a cooling effect), with sloping asymmetrical shingled roofs similar to those of European country houses. The walls are often 18 to 24 inches and reinforced in the German fachwerk style by cypress and cedar planks. These native woods are used for floors, beams, and porch supports, as well as for furniture.
Because Castroville is the largest Alsatian community in the country, the residents take their role of historic preservation seriously. Recognized by the federal government as a National Historic District and by the state as a Texas Historic District, the town includes many buildings that are recorded in the Library of Congress under the Historical American Building Survey taken in the 1930s.
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Visiting a landmark
A good way to ease into Castroville's intriguing past is to stop first at the Landmark Inn, which has welcomed travelers for more than a century. The original structure, the first floor of which was built in 1849, has been beautifully restored by the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department. Even if you decide not to spend the night in one of its eight unique and authentically furnished country rooms--and I highly recommend that you do--a tour of the mini-museum will acquaint you with Castroville's fascinating history.
Even in this quiet town, the inn is truly an oasis. With no telephones or televisions to break the mood, visitors can relax and luxuriate in the sounds of nature or the sight of the huge Texas skies. An Alsatian motto posted in each room says it best: "He who values his own tranquillity knows to respect that of others."
Fun, food, and fabulous antiques
This is not to say that Castrovillians don't love a good time. Of all their various festivals and customs, the best-known event is the annual St. Louis Day Celebration in August, an extravaganza that started as a simple church picnic. The daylong event attracts thousands of visitors from all over the state who come to enjoy homemade Alsatian specialties like parisa, a blend of raw ground beef, herbs, and spices, served with washed down with ice cold beer.
It's also a shopper's paradise when it comes to antiques. History buffs love to browse through the numerous shops in addition to flocking to the antique shows held each year. The town is also rich with talented local craftspeople, selling everything from quilts to ironwork.
And food. Always the food -- a tasty blend of French and German that is the definitive comfort food. For fine dining there's the Alsatian Restaurant at the Hotel Alsace & Spa. For steaks check out Hermann Sons Steak House and Old Alsatian Steak House. Cora's 471 is known for Mexican food, and the venerable Sammy's is practically an institution in these parts. There's also the Castroville Cafe, Larry's Restaurant and Bakery, Medina Valley Cafe, R & R Bar-B-Que, and what would a small town in Texas be without a Dairy Queen?
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For more information and a calendar of events, Castroville Chamber of Commerce, http://www.castroville.com/
How to get there: From Austin: About 100 miles southwest of Austin on I35 to IH10, then to Hwy 90 west. From San Antonio: About 15 miles west of Loop 410 and Hwy 90 west.
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