Oktoberfest the festival. Oktoberfest the beer. The evolution of Maerzen beer.

September 10, 8:37 AMBeer ExaminerCharlie Papazian

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Oktoberfest and Maerzen style beers have
evolved and differentiated themselves

Oktoberfest brings to mind the annual “picnic” the Bavarians stage in Munich each autumn. Well, actually it's a wee bit bigger than a picnic.  Oktoberfest is both the name of a festival and a style of lager beer.   Both the beer and the event have changed over the years. The event has always been held in an area that is called Wiesen (the meadow). Contrary to the impression most people have, Oktoberfest is not a festival of German beer. Only the larger breweries that brew in Munich are permitted to serve beer in their tents and they only serve one type of beer. These days, none of these breweries are German owned. All have been bought and held by larger international brewing companies whose corporate headquarters are based outside of Germany.

            Make no doubt about it, Oktoberfest Munich   serves up adequate Bavarian hospitality and tradition.   Millions have made the pilgrimage to drink liter-sized mugs of ….a beer called Oktoberfest bier . It's enjoyed in quantity by tourists who descend upon the city, while residents will tell you that they make an effort to avoid the spectacle. I admit if you are a beer enthusiast you must experience it at least once. This year’s event runs from September 20 to October 5.

            The beer served is largely regarded as traditional Oktoberfest bier, but isn’t. Over the past couple of decades the legendary beer called Oktoberfest beer has lost its tawny, almost copper-colored hue and full toasted malt flavor. It has evolved to a ubiquitous light lager, light on hop character and I think, dumb-downed to appeal to the masses. Gone are the complex and distinctive house characters that defined each brewery’s brand of Oktoberfest beer.   The beer is often referred to as “Wiesen” beer or “meadow” beer.    Medium bodied, light golden in color. Sweet maltiness is mild, clean and balanced with hop bitterness. No hop flavor or aroma is usually evident.  Some would say (including me) that it has evolved toward the same qualities as the northern German-style of  “Export” lager.

            Meanwhile tradition is harbored with the style called Maerzen, which refers to the month of March. Traditionally brewers made a full flavored deep golden to copper-hued amber lager in March and lagered (cold aged/stored)  through the summer months. Smooth full flavored Maerzen beers were released in the month of October for the fall festivals. This is a style of beer you won’t find at Munich’s Oktoberfest any longer. You may find authentically brewed versions of this beer at smaller countryside or town breweries in other areas of Bavaria.   Toasted malt sweetness predominates. Bitterness is subdued.  In artfully brewed versions a floral hop aroma and flavor emerges above the malty predominance. Germans brewers take great care to avoid a caramelized malt character. The personality of the malt resembles fresh baked cookies or sweet biscuits and breads.   It's a true lager and will not have any ale-like fruitiness.