What Americans do with malt, hops, yeast and water is so remarkably different than what the Scottish, English, Germans, Australians, New Zealanders, Japanese, Thai, Latin Americans, Africans and the rest of the world do.   Thank you for all this diversity.  It’s not only about the ingredients, but so very important it’s also about the process, environment, marketplace conditions, excise tax rate, climate, and most importantly attitude.  

            I’m in Scotland and sampling the local beers and it strikes me that even when English malt and American hops are combined in a fashion that is reminiscent of the American way, the beer has a completely different attitude to it.   It’s partly because I believe beer is alive.

            On the very north end of Loch Fyne there is the Fyne Ales Brewery.  A farmhouse brewery if I ever have seen one producing about 4,500 hl of real ales and bottled versions of the same each year.  Since 2001 they have developed their beer and their customers all over the UK and actually export a limited number of kegs of real ale to New York City.  Johnny and Tuggy Delap (photo right) were contemplating what to do with their estate and farmhouse to keep them involved with the community.  Tuggy suggested a brewery to the boys one evening as they gazed into the fireplace embers.  “Crazy” was the initial reaction.   She says, “I guess we’re all still “crazy” 7 years now.

            They’ve managed to convince champion brewer Will Wood to move away from Oakham Ales Brewery in England.  He brewed the Great British Beer Festival’s Champion Beer of 2001 – JHB.  Now he’s happily brewing on the shore of Loch Fyne in Argyll, Scotland and already has taken a few prizes with some of the Fyne Ales at recent GBBFestivals.

            We tried Inishail at 3.6% abv brewed with Mt. Hood, Cascade and Liberty hops, an all American hop bill.  Also Somerled brewed with Challenger, but late hopped with New Zealand Hallertauer and German Spalt..  On the darker side there was Vital Spark a refreshing fruity, toffee/currant-like brew with American Amarillo and Cascade hops.  The list went on and the brews were hoppier than the traditional malty Scottish ales a beer enthusiast might expect.  But today’s beer drinkers are demanding new frontiers in beer experience and Fyne Ales are certainly helping to provide them.

What’s in my glass?
Our favorite was hand-pumped real ale called Highlander Ale also brewed by Fyne Ales served at The George in the small port town of Inverary.  A good malt base and flavor with a smooth hop bitterness and flavor.  Served with a hand pump and offered with a creamy head.  Brisk and refreshing at 4.8% abv.   A great session beer and not like any real ale I’ve had in the U.S.A.  There’s a difference that I might discuss if the question arises.  Yes I’ve had real ales that have been brewed in the U.S., but like I said earlier, the brewing attitude and environment are different.  So are the beers.  (Photo left: Brewer Will Wood)