Where will it all end? Noting that Inbev is the world’s largest brewing company, and it is rumored to be considering an offer to buy Anheuser-Busch. At the same time it’s also reported that SABMiller (the South African brewing company HQ'd in London) is offering itself to be bought by InBev as well. The business journals and news reporters are salivating over these discussions. The deal is worth over $44 Billion dollars.
But all the stories and news items DON’T talk about the beer? Where it will all lead to regarding the beer drinker? Who is Inbev? It’s not like there’s a brand called Inbev Pils or Ale out there. It all started about ten years ago when there was Brahma Brewing Company in Brazil. There was also the Brazilian Antarctica Brewing Company. The two merged and became Ambev, making it one of the top 10 brewing companies in the world and claiming a virtual monopoly of the enormous beer business in Brazil. There are nearly 300 million people in Brazil and the climate is conducive to a lot of beer drinking. Ambev was a company run by a group of bankers.
Then Ambev and Interbrew merged. Interbrew was the Belgian brewing company and another giant in Europe, probably the largest in Europe at the time. There existed no Ambev nor Interbrew brand named beer. The merged company became Inbev (also currently run by a group of Brazilian bankers headquartered in London) – making it the largest brewing company in the world. They have brewery holdings and ownership of hundreds of national and regional beer brands in about 30 countries (or perhaps more) in the world.
Though Brahma and Skol beer are the two top brands in Brazil (Skol claims to be the world’s third top selling brand), they are hardly known outside of South America. What do they taste like? Brahma and Skol make Miller Lite, Coors Light and Bud Light taste like a robust lager. I once had a “choppe,” which is Brazilian for “draft” at restaurant and returned it, commenting to the waiter that I believed that the keg had been watered down. I was serious. It had virtually no taste. I ordered sparkling water instead. Now don’t get me wrong, the beer sells well in the monopolistic market that is mostly Brazil and it is technically well made, but flavor it has not.
The other brand that most people will recognize owned by Inbev is Stella Artois. A classy international lager which approaches some of the stylistic qualities of a true pilsener. I’ve welcomed it on my table while traveling in South America when the other choices leave nothing to be desired. For craft beer enthusiasts, perhaps the most well known specialty beer is Hoegaarden, a spectacularly wonderful Belgian-style Wit (wheat beer). About 20 years ago it was an independent brewery, founded and owned by legendary brewer Pierre Celis, who continues to brew his beers under the Celis brand both in Belgium and the United States.
Leffe is another brand of Inbev, an abbey beer bought out years ago when Interbrew was an entity. I have the pleasure of recalling the Leffe line of beers when it was an independent brewery. They offered wonderful and thoughtful complexity in a remarkable selection. The beer is still good, but lacks the personality that made it to the top of my list in those earlier times. Essentially it now has a sweeter profile and less depth of character.
Where will it all lead to? More later. Meanwhile who can buy Inbev?
What’s in my Glass?
Quickly, one of my favorite Belgian style Wit beers is Allagash Brewing Company’s (Portland, Maine) White. Rob Tod, owner and brewer is secretive about the special spices, but that doesn’t inhibit the appreciation for one of the finest wheat beers spiced with orange peel, coriander and wonderfully complex soft hop aroma and flavor. To me it hints of subtle wintergreen mint-ness.