Beer at 36,000 feet

April 30, 8:05 AMBeer ExaminerCharlie Papazian

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I travel a lot at 36,000 feet and more often than I’d like to admit I’m doing time to the tune of 4 to 12 hours a leg.  That’s a lot of time to think about stuff. As a result I have come to the conclusion that I simply don’t understand the deprivation therapy we’re subjected to at high elevations.  It starts with those one ounce limited edition pretzels accompanied with free orange juice and finally the generic option of $5 beer and wine.   Virtually every other airline in the world offers premium beers and wine for the price of your ticket.  Why do American based airlines need to charge while still not being able to figure out how to make money and offer a good experience?  It may be the land of the “free” and a place to pursue happiness but up in the air it’s an entirely different experience.    When I'm flying on foreign based airlines I seem to be significantly more content than flying in the U.S.

            So let’s get back to the beer served at 36,000 feet.  It seems to me if you’re going to be charged $5 a beer why isn't a more exciting selection of beer offered?   I know one reason: sometimes airlines get paid by big budget brewing companies to “assure” exclusivity. Interesting beers which beer drinkers value are “money-muscled” out of the selection process.  So it appears as though airlines really do not have the best interest of their paying customers in mind.   Now if we can just dream for a moment, imagine an airline that actually champions comfort, pursuit of happiness and customer contentment.   Designing a beer selection for 36,000 feet isn’t jet science. 

Okay, I will concede some beer drinkers go gonzo for light beer and that's fine if you want a beer you don’t want to think about.  It’s not my $5.  But when I’m flying at altitude I find I have a lot of time to think, so why not serve a beer that gets you thinking about something other than how little space there is between your nose and the seat in front of you?   Offer me quenching crisp pale ale, a malty and soothing brown ale, a full bodied meditative oatmeal stout, a gentle yet substantial malt-enhanced Scotch ale, bock beer or a zesty-fruity Belgian-style Tripel or Saison.  Beer drinkers might actually look forward to flying!  I’ll pay good money for beer kind and uplifting inflight choices.  

Airlines are missing a great opportunity with their long haul overnight flights by not offering ultimate nightcaps.  Wow, it tickles me to just imagine an offering of India Pale Ale loaded with aromatic and sleep inducing hops. What contentment!  What service!  Everybody wins.  Are you one of those people that find it hard to sleep at altitude?  Perhaps they might recommend with your meal an order of double IPA and a glass of water.   Is that too strong for frequent fliers?  No, you can’t use that argument at $5 for a glass of wine. 

            Until those specialty ales and lagers start rolling down the aisle, I’ll wistfully watch the beverage carts cruise by knowing I’ll be thirstier upon arrival.

What’s in my glass?

I find myself flying to Washington, DC probably more frequently than any other city.  There are several beer friendly bars and restaurants here.  The choices continue to improve.  One of my favorite “first beers” upon arrival is often available at Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant at 900 F St NW.  Their house brewed and award winning Czech Lager is superb.  The elevated malt flavor coupled with soft and soothing hop bitterness is preceded with an alluring floral-honey-like hop/malt aroma.  Moderate in alcohol it’s not a beer that elevates me beyond ground level.   The flavors marry well with jet lag, rehydration (I’ll often order a glass of water to match every beer I order) and food.  It costs less than one of those high flying beers that few beer enthusiasts find value in.