Bell's Brewery captures the thirst of midwest beer drinkers

October 6, 11:22 AMBeer ExaminerCharlie Papazian

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Larry Bell pours something from his special stash.

Larry Bell started homebrewing in the late 70’s.  Now he runs one of the Midwest’s largest craft breweries.  Bell’s Brewery in Kalamazoo, Michigan has experienced a phenomenal growth in popularity over the last five years.  
    I visited Larry and the brewery a couple of weekends ago.  The last time I was there was in 1996.   A lot has changed, while some things have not. 
    The packaging brewery where most of the beer is brewed is located just outside of Kalamazoo in Galesburg.  Keeping up with demand has necessitated some pretty intensive around the clock brewing schedules.   Additional fermentation tanks continue to be installed.   The original brewery and the Eccentric Café is still at 355 E. Kalamazoo.  Not to be missed if you are anywhere nearby Kalamazoo. There you’ll find a fresh selection from both brewhouses.  I found 11 beers on tap and many classic specialties available in bottles. 

Photo left: The Eccentric Cafe, Kalamazoo.
    On draft their most popular summer wheat beer Oberon was still available and at the top of the list.  It has a phenomenal cult following.  Its release every spring signals the change in seasons more than anything that has to do with the earth’s orbit.  Their current new seasonal Oktoberfest lager was as good as it gets and without a doubt better than any “Oktoberfest” beer I’ve had in Munich.  I found myself drifting back and forth between Oktoberfest and Two Hearted (IPA).   Specialties on draft included Wild One (an essay on sour beer), Double Oberon (at 9.5%) and a Sweet Honey Mead.
    As reported earlier I attended the American Homebrewers Association’s Bell’s Brewery membership rally.   Nearly 250 homebrewers and beer enthusiasts showed up. 
    Larry showed off the book that started him homebrewing, The Maltease Flagon.  He kidded that the recipe in the book said nothing about hops.   Live and learn, ehy?  Larry took pride in his American Homebrewers Association membership dating as far back as 1983.  He still has a certificate signed by me for his accomplishments in one of the early national homebrew competitions. 

Photo right: Eye catching stain glass at the cafe.  Made in part from beer bottles.  Fishing, beer and Michigan.
    Bell’s brewery beer fans rave about the beers and the good times at the brewery.  Michigan has over 70 craft breweries.  Bells Brewery is one of the pioneers that have inspired many.   I have to admit I’ve sampled my share of Michigan beers and they are living up to some high standards they’ve established for themselves.

    One of the more intriguing specialties I enjoyed was Bourbon Barrel-aged Cherry Stout.   Robust flavor of strong stout with smoothness and hint of vanilla character from the barrel aging.  Subtle acidity from cherries danced among the malt and hops with notable fruit character. 

For links to photos, videos, podcasts of the AHA Rally at Bell's visit the Michigan Beer Buzz.