Homebrewing a craft beer that's local; connecting with beer's legacy

2 comments

September 23, 5:27 PM

by Charlie Papazian, Beer Examiner

 

 

Brew Day at home
All photos by Charlie Papazian

With a blend of 9 different malts and 5 different hops (including 10 minute harvested Cascade hops) I spent 3 ½ hours tending to converting all these ingredients into a currently fermenting batch of “Return to Innocence #2.”

The inspiration behind this beer is twofold. In parts of Scandinavia there is an indigenous brew made with juniper branches and birch woodsmok ed malt. Years ago I visited the island of Gotland. There I drank liters of this good stuff called Gotlandsdricke from wooden mugs made of juniper. It was nothing short of awesome. (It does not have the same character of Sahti.) This is the first part of my inspiration.

"Lautering and sparging" -- straining and separating
grains from sweet malt liquid and rinsing with hot
water.

I am a proponent of brewing with local ingredients, at least occasionally.  To do so is to connect with the grassroots of beer and brewing.   It defines the emergence of beer.  Chokecherries, what I call lowbush juniper (actually it seems it is a variety of Chinese Juniper with needle like leaves – see photo) and of course homegrown Cascade hops are all dear and present in my environment.

My wife and I harvested ingredients for our #1 batch of “Return to Innocence” in 2006.  We are in the midst of enjoying the original batch.  It defines the word, “savor.” A nice cherry-fruity character combined with subtle smoked malt and an unzipped juniper; a woody aroma reminiscent of cedar.  It is spectacular alone or with food accompaniment.  At about 6+% there is some interesting alcohol nuance. 

Chinese Juniper branch 

The fermentation process is long and arduous. 

You won’t find this beer commercially brewed.

Juniper branches and berries are boiled during the final 20 minutes of a 60 minute regime.  Chokecherries are added after about 2 weeks. The cherries removed at about one month.  Considerable “waste” from multiple “rackings” (siphoning off from one vessel to another).  Lagered for 2 months or more.  Bottled and refermented in bottle for carbonated conditioning.  Aged for one year to mellow out vegetal and harsh woody character.  It mellows to sublime.

Juniper and hops with malt "wort" during 1-hour boil.

How do you get to enjoy this stuff?
 

You brew it yourself. Or you’re my neighbor.

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