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Riding the Jungfraubahn to the Top of Europe
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Riding the Jungfraubahn to the Top of Europe
Clint Eastwood only pretended to climb a Swiss peak in the old Eiger Sanction movie, but I have actually done it-- via Switzerland's Jungfraubahn cog railway, that is! And you can, too, aboard the century-old train that chugs passengers up into beautiful alpine scenery, through the Eiger Mountain, to the Top of Europe. Oregonians will feel right at home at the summit. After all, it’s only natural that we’re drawn to majestic mountains and stunning scenery-- whether across our state or halfway across the world.
Reaching the Top of Europe can be a literal highlight even before boarding the train. My own adventure began on the Mannlichen aerial cableway located in Wengen, Switzerland (the Top of Europe also can be reached from Interlaken or Grindelwald). Passing through wispy morning clouds, the cable car traversed up to 7,695 feet as the tiny town of Wengen and the emerald Lauterbrunnen Valley grew smaller and smaller below. Exiting the cable car, walking stick in hand, I set off on an easy trail toward the distant Jungfraujoch train station. Silvery mountain peaks lined the horizon and clanging cowbells kept me company for the hour and a half walk. I suppose it was the exercise and alpine air that gave me an appetite, because I couldn't resist a quick stop at the Grindelwaldblick restaurant. Kaffee and kuchen (or a bier) when enjoyed outdoors in the shadow of the icy Eiger, never tasted better!
Energized with caffeine and calories, I hiked the remaining short distance to Kleine Scheidegg, a scenic village at the base of the Eiger where I boarded the Jungfraubahn. Ticket prices are as steep as the incline, but worth the splurge. The train's slow ascent over 7.5 miles allows about an hour for marveling at the passing winterized landscape and for appreciating the cog railway's history.
Beginning over 100 years ago, and taking sixteen long years to complete, every inch of train tunnel was hand-blasted through the Eiger's notorious North Face. Get a close-up look at the tunnel when the train briefly stops at two stations, and also peek out the large observation windows hewn from solid alpine rock. Once back on board, relax and enjoy the spectacular sights as you travel to the Top of Europe-- an experience as dramatic as the destination itself!
Once at the summit (11,333 feet above sea level), snowy mountains, rivers of ice, and sunshine-brightened sapphire sky overflow in every direction. Superb views extend as far as the summits of the Vosges Mountains in France and the Black Forest in Germany. But no binoculars are needed to see the towering trio-- Eiger, Monch, and Jungfrau (Ogre, Monk and Virgin)-- as well as nearly 14 miles of curving, carving Aletsch Glacier, the longest ice stream in the Alps. In addition to all the natural beauty, you'll find the Sphinx Weather Observatory, a cafe, and a gift shop. And don’t forget to send a postcard back to friends in Portland. All cards and letters will bear a special postal cancellation stamp denoting it was sent from Europe's highest railway station. All aboard!
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