This Dinosaur a modern miracle

January 2, 2:15 PMUpstate NY Restaurant ExaminerBill Dowd

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SYRACUSE, NY -- There are plenty of barbecue joints in the state, mostly seasonal and some with pretty good menus. But, trust me, there is nothing like the Dinosaur.

Until a few years ago, the Syracuse honky tonk/biker bar/barbecue joint was unique. But that has changed.

Owner John Stage is a former biker who with buddy Mike Rotella expanded their portable commercial barbecue rig (a 55-gallon drum cut in half) into a takeout operation in 1988, then expanded and added a bar and sit-down dining in 1990. He opened a second location in 2002, in Rochester, and one in New York City in 2005.  

The Dinosaur, despite its far-flung fame, is almost indescribable. The first thing you notice about the sprawling brick building is the row of Harleys and other motorcycles parked outside, all gleaming chrome and metallic paint.

The second thing you'll usually notice is the long line of people waiting to get in. No reservations accepted, period. If you're lucky enough to make your way to the Hostess Hut just inside the main door, leave your name and then get out of the way until you're called upon to get a table. Meanwhile, maybe there will be a seat available at the long bar. Maybe not. Either way, there's plenty of eye candy to keep you busy. Some evenings, live blues and jazz music add to the pleasant hubbub.

The place is one giant bulletin board, with rough wood walls plastered with signs, pictures, neon squiggles and murals celebrating dinosaurs and other animals pursuing very human-like pastimes such as club dancing.

The clientele itself is also worth looking at: Goth, punk, jock, biker and ordinary families sit cheek to jowl at a haphazard jumble of tables, digging into some of the best barbecue dishes I've found north of the Mason-Dixon Line. That, plus about 30 different sandwiches.

Barbecue aficionados always want to know what style a restaurant utilizes -- St. Louis, Memphis, Southwest ... . At the Dinosaur, the answer is, yes.

The crew in the open kitchen turns out Angus beef brisket from a custom Texas pit, Cuban style mojito chicken and Cuban sandwiches, slow-cooked Carolina or Memphis pork, Cajun-spiced everything, habanero-spiked salsas, St. Louis ribs ... . It do go on.

Four of us stopped in on the way back from visiting wineries in the nearby Finger Lakes. We figured the usual agonizing wait wouldn't be so bad at mid-afternoon on a Sunday. We hit a lucky lull that necessitated a mere 20-minute pause. 

Our waitress had the requisite Dinosaur attitude: wisecracking but efficient, leading us through an enjoyable exploration of the complex menu.

I couldn't wait to get my spoon into a cup of thick, spicy chili topped with shredded cheddar. Mrs. Brown wanted to try the fried green tomatoes, coated in cornmeal and Cajun seasonings, flash fried and served with a cayenne buttermilk ranch dressing. The waitress said the "extra fancy'' version was best -- sliced shrimp, cheddar and country ham crisps atop the original. We shared them, to the delight of all. After that we were all over the place.

The Big Ass Pork Plate (honest!) did the trick for Mr. Brown, a nearly overwhelming heap of savory pulled pork with corn bread and two homemade side dishes from a list that included coleslaw, tomato cucumber salad, chili, barbecue beans, mashed potatoes, fries, applesauce, salad greens, cottage cheese, black beans and rice, macaroni salad, etc.

Mrs. Brown wrestled the delicious chicken/ribs/brisket sampler to a standstill. I inhaled the piled-high pulled pork sandwich, with an extra shot of sauce from a table caddy of a half-dozen kinds, and crisp garlic-dill pickle slices. Constant Companion was sated by the sliced Texas beef (rubbed and smoked for 12 hours) with a huge dollop of mashed potatoes and a thick, rich gravy.

At this point all but the gastronomically intrepid Mrs. Brown were stuffed. A wedge of the seasonal pumpkin coconut cream pie was perfect for her, with a few nibbles for the rest of the crew.

Our bill for the repast was a little over $70 before drinks and tip. No wonder this place has become an upstate icon.