Bring on the Squash

October 28, 6:45 PMPortland Cooking ExaminerFayth Preyer

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Freedom Farm's Winter Squash Display

For Culinary folks, nothing announces that seasonal change is underfoot more than the colorful arrival of  winter squash at the Portland's Farmer Market.  Unlike summer squash (yellow squash, zucchini, chayote)  winter squash have mature seeds, harder rinds and must be cooked in order to be eaten. Some varieties are definitely easier to work with that others,  but each has a wonderful charater, taste and texture all their own. 

Acorn Squash

Freedom Farm (one of the stands that stocked those wonderful Hakurei Turnip all summer) has the best selection right now.  From wet squash like the buttercup and spaghetti,  to dry squash such  hubbard, acorn and butternut,  winter squash are a great way to welcome the change of seasons and dive into fall flavor. 

The firm texture and sweet flesh of acorn squash makes it a natural partner for spicy foods such as currys. Try this modified recipe for Southeast Asian Squash Curry , which orginally appeared in Gourmet Magazine  in October 2008, for a simple, yet vibrant one dish meal that shows the verstiality of squash. 

Ingredients

• 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons vegetable oil, divided
• 1 1/2 pound acorn squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 3/4 teaspoon cumin seeds
• 1 medium leek, white  and light green parts thinly sliced
• 1 (14-ounce) can unsweetened coconut milk (do not stir), divided
• 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons Thai Kitchen red curry paste
• 1/3 cup water
• 1 (2- to 3-inch) cinnamon stick
• 3 whole cloves
• 5 ounces baby spinach (5 cups packed)
• 1 tablespoon Asian fish sauce, or to taste
• 1/4 cup salted roasted cashews, chopped

• Accompaniment: lime wedges

Preparation:

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Sauté squash with cumin and 1/4 teaspoon salt until beginning to brown, about 6 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

Add remaining 2 teaspoons oil to skillet and cook leeks over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add 1/4 cup coconut milk from top of can and cook, stirring, until fat starts to separate and look glossy, about 2 minutes. Add curry paste and cook, stirring, 2 minutes.

Add squash, water, cinnamon, cloves, and remaining coconut milk and simmer, covered, until squash is tender, about 8 minutes. Stir in spinach and cook, covered, until just wilted, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in fish sauce. Sprinkle with cashews.

Serve with: jasmine rice

Variation:  Southeast Asian Squash Curry with Shrimp.  Add 1 pound of shelled and deveined raw shrimp along with the remaining Coconut Milk, squash and spices.